millerrobs
21.05.2021 20:11:17
New pressure treated wood has a high moisture content. Until the wood has dried sufficiently it can cause adhesion failures both for surface coatings and adhesives. more
See full version: Can I use epoxy coatings and adhesives on pressure treated wood
New pressure treated wood has a high moisture content. Until the wood has dried sufficiently it can cause adhesion failures both for surface coatings and adhesives. more
The wood will eventually dry to an acceptable moisture content which can be followed with a moisture meter. At that point adhesives can be used successfully with normal surface preparation. Metal salts can be left behind on the surface and still cause epoxy coating adhesion problems. If white or green residue is visible, it should be scrubbed off before applying a sealer or coating. [links]
If you want to show off the wood’s natural color, use a clear or semi-transparent oil-based sealant. If you want to change the color of your deck, you can use a combination stain and sealant. However, you shouldn’t attempt to seal pressure-treated wood that’s already been stained . [links]
To begin with, apply a very small amount of the sealant to an inconspicuous area to make sure it adheres properly to the wood. Plus, you’ll also be able to see if you like the way it looks before you spend hours applying it to your entire deck. [links]
Pressure-treated lumber is notoriously difficult to stain and seal compared with other decking materials, which is why some manufacturers actually used to advise against it. But today, most types of pressure-treated wood can be effectively sealed and protected – here’s how to do it properly so that the sealant adheres to the wood. here
Maintaining your wooden deck is the best way to keep it looking it’s best for as long as possible. Cleaning your deck and applying a fresh coat of sealant once every year will help keep the wood from weathering and cracking.
Pressure-treated lumber has been treated with chemical preservatives to help prevent rot and insect damage. Certain chemicals, such as the water-repellent CA-C (copper azole type C), also makes the wood suitable for ground contact, even in marine environments.
Exterior grade plywood is a good alternative to marine ply. Whilst exterior ply may not be pre-sanded and visually free of imperfections, it should still use 100% waterproof glue and should be suitable for permanent exposure to outdoor environments. Exterior ply may also have voids in between the layers that aren’t immediately visible. The only way of truly knowing is by peeling back the layers and inspecting. But all things considered, you shouldn’t go out buying (or building for that matter) without prior research. In the United Kingdom some building suppliers, for example Jewsons, have marine plywood listed on their website. Further investigation however, shows that the marine plywood is in fact not suitable for boat building (their words). Yeh that’s right a product labelled as marine plywood that is not suitable for boat building – like a kitchen knife not suitable for chopping vegetables or a TV that doesn’t show sports! You should always research or run your own tests on a few samples before burning your supplies budget on a bunch of a useless sheet materials. here
So why not skip the plywood and just fibreglass?
I’m currently working on an 18ft fibreglass fishing boat that has been totally gutted by the previous owner. The boat is currently a ghostly empty shell with nothing but a loose BMC 1.5 engine. With help, the engine has now been moved to the back of the boat in preparation for the rebuild of the boat’s interior. Although it’s a fibreglass boat, it will still require a plywood floor that will need to be reinforced with fibreglass matting. This is to protect it against the elements and to also form a waterproof structural bond to the hull of the boat. It would be a pretty awful to be in a capsized boat but imagine the floor conking you on the head as well if it wasn’t attached. With this in mind, I took to searching the internet for the solution.
The main issue with using a non-marine plywood is the eternal problem of time. Given sufficient time and use it may be that the protective fibreglass layer becomes damaged allowing water to permeate the surface and begin to rot the underlying plywood. If the plywood is required structurally then this becomes a messy problem indeed. Your floor will begin to sag and rot through. You lose the strength of the plywood backing over time meaning that the fibreglass is then vulnerable to cracks and structural damage. Unless a large amount of fibreglass matting has been used with a good amount of strength then your floor could potentially fail. In theory and like most things in life the more you spend the better your product will be and the longer it will last.
Marine plywood is a great sheet material that can be easily cut using both hand saws and basic power tools. Marine plywood is often used to build boat interiors and to replace flooring during boat renovations. But why do we have to use plywood specifically made for the marine environment and are we wasting our money on expensive ‘marine’ plywood when outdoor grade ply may work just as well?
Making sure your boat stringers are healthy and strong is an essential part of fibreglass boat maintenance. Although it’s possible to replace small sections of the stringer, it’s often easier to make a full replacement which ensures there is no remaining damage left below the deck. here
Although fibreglass boats tend to require less maintenance than their wooden counterparts, they’re not without problems. They suffer from many of the same age-related problems of fatigue and moisture experienced by traditional wooden boats, as well as the usual damage from collisions, groundings and the forces of nature.
To replace your stringers, follow this simple seven-step method:
If you’ve got a repair you’re unsure about, visit WSI’s dedicated support page for video tutorials, guides and expert advice.