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See full version: How to Trim Spray Foam
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Spray foam is a convenient product that you can use for many applications, like fixing holes in drywall, filling in seams between wood, and insulating your walls. While spray foam expands to fill in gaps, there may be times when you accidentally apply too much. If you have foam that bubbles out, it could have an unsightly appearance or make it difficult to finish the surface. Luckily, there are a few easy ways you can get rid of the excess foam.
There's almost nothing as fun as working with foam, it's so easy to cut and shape and sand. I've been after the holy grail of kayaks for years; light weight and durable. You can make light boats out of thin wood but since they're wood you need to take care of them or they'll rot and fall to pieces and if you glass them too much they're too heavy. You can buy plastic kayaks that will last forever no matter what you do to them but they weight too much. What I'm looking for is a 14 foot kayak that weights under 15 pounds and will hold up forever no matter what the level of care you give it; I'm talking about really bad care like being buried in a wet marsh for a year or sunk in the mud, something I can leave out in the weather and have it ready to go any time. I want it light enough to be able to throw it up to you on the cabin top or wear like a hat when it's raining. I believe that all this can be done and here's my first try and it would have been successful except for a slight miscalculation in some of my numbers, the next one will fit the bill. Steve was there to record my maiden voyage and Lenna got some more that afternoon. Here's a youtube video, I know you'll enjoy it because it's of me screwing up.
And a custom back rest. At this point the boat weighted about nine pounds. I then glassed the bottom, sides and cockpit floor with 6 oz cloth but just epoxy coated the deck to save weight. Solid foam is surprisingly strong all by itself. more
I even had a seat built in to keep my rear dry. The top layer had been pre cut and tapered, oh never mind, I screwed up.
I have recently purchased a second hand Eurosport dory, only to find that the internal hull space is allowing water to enter, and thus soaking the foam core used between the outer hull and the internal moulding.
The boat has a drain plug at the stern, between the two skins, which I have left open to allow water to drain out. I have identified some areas where the water may be getting in from, and these need repairing, but apparently before any repairs can be undertaken the foam needs to be fully dried out.
Has anyone any experience of the best way to dry the foam core? I have been told that the only truly successful way is to cut an inspection opening and remove the wet foam and replace with new dry foam.
I do like the boat, but as it is only small, and is probably already 15 years old I am trying to refrain from going overboard on the repair costs.
Condensation alone along with rain, humidity and foam will work hard against you! [links]
It'll never dry out over a UK winter without some sort of active help. [links]
Live long enough and one day you might need a hip, maybe both of them, replaced. Keep your boat long enough and eventually you might have to replace one, or all, of your fuel tanks. I’ve been through both ordeals, and I can’t say which is worse. Extracting a leaky fuel tank can mean many hours, maybe days, of expensive boatyard labor. And then you have to put the new one in, and rebuild everything, while the meter keeps right on spinning. Sure, my doc charges about ten grand an hour, but he’s in and out in 90 minutes. Talk about Hobson’s choice.
But many of today’s first-class boatbuilders have been using XLPE tanks for years, including Tiara Yachts. Indeed, they’re installing a single XLPE plastic tank in the new triple-outboard Tiara Sport 38 LS. The capacity: 331 gallons of gasoline. (The boat also carries 30 gallons of diesel to power a genset.) So, I asked David Glenn, Tiara’s marketing manager, about the odor issue. “No way we’d drop boats with fumes!” he said, sounding a bit peeved that I’d even suggested it. Glenn said they’d had the odor issue more than 10 years ago, but not now; the new polyethylene tanks have a liner to prevent permeation. All Pursuits also have polyethylene tanks, he added. [links]
Moeller Marine rotomolds Tiara’s tanks, and tanks for many other boatbuilders, too. Steven Fulton, a tech-support guy at Moeller, says hydrocarbon molecules can pass through polyethylene, enough to cause odor. It’s easily controlled with ventilation around the tank. But Moeller’s newer tanks have an extra layer of nylon on the inside, to resist molecular permeation and meet the current EPA regulations. Boats with engines built in 2012 or later must use the new tanks if the tanks are mounted belowdecks. (Those boats must also use low-permeation fuel lines and other components. When was the last time you replaced your fuel lines? Too long ago, I bet.)Moeller still builds the old-style tanks, which are okay for pre-2012 engines. And by the way, Moeller agrees: You should never foam a tank in place. [links]