See full version: Checking your Vacuum Breaker for freeze damage
2. Inspect the valves and valve handles, the valves areas are some of the weakest points on the system along with the bonnet and poppet. Usually the opposite side of the handles will crack and give way to frozen water in the valve. more
5. Green oxidation is also a sign of leaking water out of somewhere in the unit [links]
6. You may need to remove the canopy/ lid to inspect the Bonnet and poppet “the guts” of the unit. It is best to turn one of the large handles on the vacuum breaker to the closed position and shut the water flow off to the unit prior to removal of the canopy. Then open one of the small check ports with a flat head screwdriver to relieve the built up pressure in the unit. Now you can take a good look into the guts of the unit for damage
1. Look for obvious cracks or breaks in the copper pipe surrounding your vacuum breaker
I also need to verify that the manifold block is open between the S3 valve chamber and the main housing. Where the three o-rings are located between the manifold block and the main housing, I can see that the middle o-ring is where the hydraulic pressure comes out of the main housing and into the inlet check valve. Is the higher o-ring the passage from S1 to the lift ram and the lower o-ring the exhaust passage from S3 to the reservoir? Or do I have them reversed?
if its a unimount, the lights and head gear come off with the blade. Here is a few pics to help. here
Well, now that I try to recall, I think I'm gonna have to take it apart again. IIRC, the spool cavity had access to the l-e-f-t angle passage (which is the more forward hose connection on the manifold block), and to the S2 valve. I'm gonna have to get that thing apart and maybe try and get some pics. [links]
The passage between the dr side passage and the poppet cavity could be plugged which wouldn't allow it to push up on the poppet and not allowing the dr side fluid pressure to escape from the ram.
To be totally thorough you should pull the manifold off the side of the pump housing so you can clean it better and not force any contaminates/cleaners into the reservoir. more
Is there any special procedure to installing the Poppet Check Valve Assembly? (I installed the spool valve first, then the poppet valve, reached up in the spool valve passage with a long needle nose pliers and moved the spool and could feel that the poppet valve pin was engaging the spool valve.) I even reinstalled the old spool valve as it was not quite as snug in the passage as the new spool valve. more
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One last thing, this article will help you to find a leak in the ‘Spider’ assembly, I've written two other articles that cover two other possible problems with the ‘Spider’ assembly:
How can you tell them apart? Well, in a nutshell, the CPI system does not use a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and the intake manifold plenum is aluminum metal and was used from 1992-1995 on the 4.3L V6 engines only. The CSFI does use a MAF sensor and the plenum is plastic and was used from 1996 on up on the 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines. [links]
TIP 3: This article will only show you how to test the fuel injector assembly (of which the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator are a part of), there is no ‘Remove and Replace’ instructions. I recommend buying a repair manual for these instructions. more