It’s also recommended that you carefully check the diagram that comes with the kit. Every kit is unique and can only be used for a certain type of carburetor. more
See full version: How to Rebuild or Adjust a Jet Ski Carburetor Video Guide
It’s also recommended that you carefully check the diagram that comes with the kit. Every kit is unique and can only be used for a certain type of carburetor. more
Unfortunately, jet ski carburetor rebuild kits are not available for every vintage model, especially not for the oldest ones. more
These are usually available in one kit, along with the necessary tools and instructions. This means that if you want to rebuild your jet ski’s carb yourself it will cost you only $20-$50. Make sure to purchase the right OEM kit to fit your carb as aftermarket kits do more harm than good.
Finally, it depends on the make of your jet ski and whether it has a single or twin carburetors.
Is that the only test to prove whether the coil is good? I've read some mentions of testing primary and secondary windings separately but I don't know how.
Thanks for that. I tested between the spark leads and got zero continuity. That doesn't sound good so maybe my coil is finished. I've ruled out spark plugs, and all stator windings check out ok. The only thing I find strange is that I still get some type of weak spark - does this make sense if I have infinite resistance between the plug leads?
The only other thing I can think of that may cause this is some kind of bad earth. The ski came to me in pieces so I've had to guess at the wiring. I have the heavy red cable from the ebox going direct to the battery, and a heavy black cable going from the battery to one of the exhaust manifold nuts. I also added an extra earth cable from the battery to one of the retaining bolts on the case of the ebox in case that needed an earth. Does this sound right? more
- Tested the resistance between the two plug leads. I read infinite resistance. I must be honest and say that I'm not sure exactly how that coil is internally so I'm not sure if that is fatal or not. I'm just a little surprised that it sparks at all if there's some kind of failure in the coil. I hope it is though as it's a nice easy fix.
The truth is YOU DON’T “ADJUST” pop-off. You “CHECK” the pop-off. here
Carb won’t pop-off at all, or pops at 20psi+ over correct number – FAIL here
Check your current needle and seat and the size will be stamped on it, small…
but it is there. here
Since factory recreational skis come with oil injection pumps, they generally don’t specify a specific mix ratio. (Most variable pumps run between 32:1 and 100:1, depending on throttle position). here
HOW MUCH OIL SHOULD I USE? here
You don’t need to worry about “how much oil” for engines with oil injection pumps, it measures the oil for you. You just need to keep the reservoir full. here
Many of the oils on the shelf are going to be TC-W3 rated (so ok), and there are some easy to find, relatively cheap, very good oils, and these are the products I recommend for most engines. Pennzoil Semi and Yamaha 2W are the products most of my customers are using ($18 to $25/gallon). here
And, while this guideline paints a wide brush, it also says that basic (found everywhere) TC-W3 outboard oil is within the spec. This truly means almost any 2S oil on the shelf will meet the factory spec, and the factory is the expert. It’s hard to disagree with the guys that make the engines. more
What should I do to fix the issue? more
If you are on the trailer and running the hose, be sure to shut the hose off before you get the engine to stop running.
I get this call about once a week. Customer says they started the ski on the trailer, blipped the throttle and it started running really fast. Letting go of the throttle did nothing. Pulled the safety lanyard and it still didn’t quit. Pulled the spark plug wires and that doesn’t make it quit. Finally, they thought to pull the choke, and that killed it.
Is there more info? [links]