rfugger
12.05.2021 22:04:56
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The yellow wires are ac voltage from your alternator under the flywheel. The red is dc out and black is ground reference. engine block/battery neg. The output voltage is dependent upon engine rpm and load. If you have a discharged battery, it will load the regulator and it cannot produce adequate voltage. best thing to do is charge your battery before you put it on the engine. [links]
url points to merucy part 95845 here
Re: How to test 2 wire voltage regualtor and or rectifier? here
Max output voltage for an unregulated alternator at wide open throttle (WOT) is 16v; if regulated usually 14.5 is max. When the battery is charging it will have more than 12v on it after it has charged up sufficiently to allow the regulator voltage to rise properly. Once the engine is stopped and the battery has had time to stabilize the battery voltage will drop to around 12.5 to 13vdc. [links]
I've got a mercury 7.5 hp 1981. It's been made in belgium and got a bvoltage regulator with only 2 terminals.
look at http://www.**********/parts/search/Merc/Mercury/1982/1025502/BELGIUM%20ENGINES/parts.html
part #1
Nope. Wrong as the tach is seperate circuit in rect/reg so rect/reg could be good and tach side of it bad.. [links]
If you have doubts about your tach, just use any of the yellow leads instead of the gray lead. It's going to give you exactly the same signal voltage as the gray. Your tach will either work or it won't. If it doesn't and the yellow leads tested o.k. with the light then it's your tach and not the rect/regulator.
What if you dont have a DVA multimeter. Is there a way of Testing the Stator with a regular Multimeter? here
It is not unusual for both regulators to fail. One gives up the ghost, and the full load on the other one soon does it in. here
I know this has been done before. but I want to make sure i tested the Tachometer and both of my Voltage Regulators/Rectifiers before i go out and buy 2 of them. Here are some specs: [links]
Don't matter it still gets it's signal from the same place on a V-6 that it has for years. The stator charging coils. If you think there's some sort of electronic magic going on in there, you are mistaken. The gray wire is only there to make it easier for laymen to hook up the rectifier/regulator. Tell them to hook the gray tach wire up to the one of the yellows and they cry because the colors don't match. So, to stop all the crying they simply added a gray wire. It's also before any rectification and regulation.
Think they found that heat sinking them down to the block that can be/had even hotter water flowing through actually made them hotter and fail more often. Things may have changed though with his 98, IDK. [links]
The very best thing you can possibly do is buy the manufacture's model, HP, year specific shop manual for your engine. Not some aftermarket version but the real shop annual. It will have tons of info as to how to test things on your engine and what to expect as results. That will help you understand everything concerning your engine. As for how to test voltage regulators, unless you really understand how to use a volt meter and interpret the readings, it is really difficult to explain how to test them on here. You can read the output while the engine is running, or you can setup a testing power supply and read the output on the bench. But you really have to understand what is going on with them to verify what is happening. JMHO!
The heat sink compound Sam I Am mentioned can be found at most computer stores. And don't skip it! It helps transfer the heat produced by the regulator to cool it and without the compound the reg will overheat and burnout. here
Seems to be going around more and more these days eh? Can't say I blame you. but get AND read a manual too as suggested!! here
Concur and these do/can indeed run pretty warm as they are still in fact, a simple linear shunt reg. on the mag. [links]