atomesix87
22.04.2021 16:14:39
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After driving my 1963 Austin-Healey for 21 years and putting on about 27,000 miles, I decided to restore it and put the Healey back into what I hope to be mint condition.
The brakes took a little longer, because I wanted to start bleeding the lines at the furthest wheel cylinder. Eventually, I closed off the rear cylinder, and started bleeding at the left front wheel cylinder. Voila! That line was filled with dirt, and by starting at that point, the brake system started to relieve itself of air and dirt. From there, I had no problem bleeding the system, starting at the furthest wheel cylinder and working back toward the master cylinder. [links]
While sitting there over the years on jack-stands, all of the brake and clutch fluid drained out (or disappeared somewhere). I know that I would need to rebuild the master cylinders. So I did, but when it came time to bleed the air from the lines, I couldn’t. Starting from the furthest most points, nothing worked. I pumped the master cylinders to no avail. more
The brakes took a little longer, because I wanted to start bleeding the lines at the furthest wheel cylinder. Eventually, I closed off the rear cylinder, and started bleeding at the left front wheel cylinder. Voila! That line was filled with dirt, and by starting at that point, the brake system started to relieve itself of air and dirt. From there, I had no problem bleeding the system, starting at the furthest wheel cylinder and working back toward the master cylinder.
After driving my 1963 Austin-Healey for 21 years and putting on about 27,000 miles, I decided to restore it and put the Healey back into what I hope to be mint condition.
The clutch system turned out easy to fix because the bleeder screw was plugged with dirt. Therefore, loosening the screw did not permit the air, fluid (and dirt) to escape, permitting me to bleed the clutch system.
While sitting there over the years on jack-stands, all of the brake and clutch fluid drained out (or disappeared somewhere). I know that I would need to rebuild the master cylinders. So I did, but when it came time to bleed the air from the lines, I couldn’t. Starting from the furthest most points, nothing worked. I pumped the master cylinders to no avail. more
(If you suspect that the lines are partially or completely clogged with dirt, disconnect the lines at the wheel cylinders and or front brake hoses, and flush them with denatured alcohol. Best results are achieved when you can use an air compressor to blow the lines clear. If you place a small piece of tubing on the master cylinder end of the line, you can press the end of the air nozzle against the tubing-Ed.)
In all my years I've NEVER seen a metal line clogged on any car, keep that in mind. How about you post the symptoms you've got?
I realize this is an old post but it keeps coming up when I search Google for a clogged brake line solution and wondering if someone has further thoughts. I bought an old BMW Bavaria. After replacing the brake and clutch master cylinders, I found a burst rusty brake line when bleeding RR caliper. The caliper spit a little and air came out but no real fluid. The fluid was in a puddle mid-car. I flared and installed a new steel line then pressurized my Motive bleeder to 13 psi however:
You'll end up tearing your head off when you realize you've misdiagnosed this one. There's nothing in the brake system that can fall apart to clog a brake line so bad that it can stand up to the hydraulic pressure. The only potential candidate would be rust, and if you had that much rust to choke off a line inside, it would have expanded and burst the tube.