JoesphCros
13.06.2021 15:51:06
With the switch in the Off, Slow or Fast positions both wire spring arms A and B are resting against the 12v contact.
See full version: How to wire a wiper motor with park
With the switch in the Off, Slow or Fast positions both wire spring arms A and B are resting against the 12v contact.
Whereas (again at the time of writing) these (Leacy, ANG and Auto Electrical Supplies) are all incorrect as the stalk is above the pivot:
Switches from a number of sources have been assembled incorrectly as shown by the asterisks above: The stalk is above the pivot instead of below, the cam to operate the spring fingers is also pointing upwards instead of down, and the wire spring fingers are around the second contact down instead of the third. At the time of writing Moss, Brown & Gammons and Midland Sports and Classics are correct in that the stalks are below the pivots as can be seen here:
The moving portion of the switch has a brass roller (arrowed) that bridges adjacent pairs of contacts in each of the parked, slow and fast positions. The switch is shown in the parked position bridging the Park and Slow contacts. The switch is shown in the RHD orientation, rotate the image 180 degrees for LHD.
The physical arrangement on the switch. Note that this shows a second brown/light-green piggy-backed with the existing brown/light-green on terminal 5 . here
Hover over a wire to confirm the colour
Wiper Switch : Jumpers the LB and the LW wires [links]
OK, So we have the switch figured out, and we know where the wires go, lets look at the motor. more
Top arm: Connected to +12V via a L wire jumpered off the Common Brush (see Motor section below) more
One: A double blue wire terminated with a female bullet connector. One of these blue wires goes to the wiper fuse in the fuse panel providing the wiper motor with +12V. The other goes to the wiper washer motor providing it with +12V.
In the HI position: WB is tied to LR through the solder jumper.
The Ford wiper control system on late model vehicles is completely different than anything you’re used to in the past. Examine the Ford wipers wiring diagram below. First, notice thathe wiper speed switch is now called a multi-function switch (MFS). It does not actually switch power to the wiper motor. It just acts a signaling device to tell the Smart Junction Box (SJB) what action you’d like it to take. In this case, the Smart Junction Box performs the same functions as a Body Control Module used in other makes and models. So you’ll have to check reference voltages coming into the MFS based on the position of the switch. Then you’ll have to check the grounds provided by the SJB the run to the control coils on the Park/Run and Hi/Low relays.
The SJB provides a reference voltage to the MFS. The voltage flows through resistors built into the MFS and then to ground. The SJB measure the voltage drop and based on the remaining voltage, determines what setting the driver has requested. The SJB then applies a ground to the appropriate relays which then provide power to the wiper motor and washer motor.
• 15A fuse for the washer motor relay and washer motor here
'Tis a beautiful day. Well, except for that one dark cloud that looms ahead, directly in your path through the countryside. Relax, it's a short summer cloudburst, and you'll pass through it in a minute or two. Raindrops dance on your windshield, forcing you to turn on your wipers. The blades, however, only twitch. Uh-oh. A few seconds later, the now indispensable rubber strips make a low-speed swipe across the glass, smearing the bugs and grit into a translucent paste, groaning and squeaking every inch of the way. And then the coup de grâce: The blades stop cold directly in your line of vision. The good news is that you manage to safely steer to the curb and wait out the shower. But now you've got a problem—your wipers have quit.
Actually, a wiper assembly that refuses to move might have a simple blown fuse. But usually fuses don't blow on their own. Even at full stall, the current draw of the motor should be well below the fuse's rating. If the fuse is blown, odds are there's something else wrong, like a shorted wiper-motor armature or faulty wiring anywhere along the harness between the motor and the switch. Even a mechanical problem like a seized bushing can make a fuse eventually fail.
The mechanism on windshield wipers is as simple as could be. Inside that gearbox on the motor is a simple worm gear, spinning a ring gear and bellcrank that translate the motor's circular motion to a linear one, back-and-forth. Simple joints attach the transmission arms to the wiper pivot shaft, which is fixed to the cowl by some sort of pillow block. Lack of lubrication, ice buildup or simple corrosion takes its toll and can slow things down. A loose joint will leave lost motion, which can cause the blades to either flop around or, worse yet, catch each other and get tangled. The bad news: Sometimes it's difficult to access the area under the cowl. Worse news: If you go to the trouble of buying an aftermarket service manual in the hope that it will provide some guidance—any guidance—as to how to remove the cowl, it probably won't. Cars are complicated enough that not every single thing that needs to be taken apart can be fit into a bound book, and straightforward stuff like bodywork often fails to make the cut. (Think about it: Is it ultimately more important to know the torque values for the connecting-rod bolts or where all the screws to the cowl are hidden?) here