TORNS
31.05.2021 19:30:19
BPM front 26" wheel with 17AH HL battery: £689. here
See full version: WOOSH BIKES
BPM front 26" wheel with 17AH HL battery: £689. here
The pedelec sensor can be mounted to the left if space is a problem:
Thumb throttle:
here
The good points are:
- Less work.
- Suits cyclists who only need temporary help to rest their legs.
Bad points:
- The throttle is sensitive and instantaneous.
If you fit the thumb throttle, you must also fit brake sensors for your safety.
SWX02 48V rear 26"/700C wheel with 48V 12AH battery: £599.
Installation
Protection: thermally protected with kelly controller more
It is important to note these motor are Brushless permanent magnet motors and as such require a
specific kind of controller designed for this type of motor.
Color: Motor Black, Rim Silver
more
Wheel size: WM3 style 36 hole 18 X 2.15 more
Re: Force Flywheel Magnets- kits ?
Can't find one at a reasonable price? I have one off a 40 that should fit but it aint gunna be real cheap either since I would be parting out a whole ignition. I would need to check position of the center trigger magnet first anyway. [links]
Re: Force Flywheel Magnets- kits ? here
Thanks Frank, I have seen one on Ebay for about $75 s/h included. But now im trying to take the magnets off the 120hp flywheels that I had lying around. Its a bit a pain since I did glue it with JB weld. Im soaking it off in acetone right now. Hopefully, overnight it will soften up and I can remove the magnets to put on the 70hp flywheel. If that wont work, Im shooting for the one on Ebay. [links]
Acetone didnt do anything to the JB weld. SO i ordered a replacement from Ebay. Also order a used voltage regulator as well. The old one burnt out so bad, it dripped all the plastic all over the engine area.
Re: Force Flywheel Magnets- kits ?
The geared motor (below) is a little more complex, but the clever complexity makes it lighter and smaller. Gears are awesome, you already have gearing on your bike - it can turn a bunch of low-torque circles into a few high-torque circles, or the reverse - this is handy if you've got a tiny motor and you want to make it push along a loaded bike, so the motor runs at high speed for efficiency and the gearing slows it down and increases the torque, to push you forward. And just like the gearing on your bike, a ratcheting freewheel lets you coast without drag (in this case from the magnets), but the extra moving parts will eventually wear, just like the gears on a bike will some day crunch and skip and slip, and you'll have to replace them (the nylon gears). And since the gearing is small and designed to make a wheel spin fast, heavier riders and riders with a lot of cargo will have trouble with durability. For people that need a really strong push, special direct-drive trike hubs with the motors wound (using more copper) for higher torque and a lower top speed will make pulling heavier loads a breeze, they’ll go slower, but they’ll give lots of power and should last for many years.
The direct drive motor (photo above right) is the simplest: the outer shell of the hub is part of the motor, and has a big ring of strong rare-earth magnets fixed to it. When the motor runs, it drives the wheel directly. That's where your name comes from. This means that the wheel is simply a motor with the shaft fixed in place so that the body of the motor (the outer hub shell, and thus your wheel) spins instead of the shaft. It’s a simple system, but the motor has to be big and heavy to produce enough power - a small motor spinning slowly doesn’t produce enough torque, and the speed you want your wheel to turn at is relatively slow, so the motor needs to be as big as possible to produce torque at low speeds, or else you could add some gears to change that…. [links]
The 500w Direct-Drive motor is simple and robust here
The 500w Geared motor: light, high-torque, and fast. [links]
What nylon gears? Direct who? The reason you've got a choice at all is because there are two basic ways to get motor power from the hub to the wheel. Let’s look a little closer:
The first set of answers corresponds to direct drive motors: they're quieter, but have less torque, they're more durable, but they're also heavier and drag some, making pedaling less efficient, and their range on a full charge is a little less. Direct drive motors are nearly silent, humming along smoothly. In contrast, geared motors make some whirring noises, but are so light and small they could almost pass for a normal bike hub, and there's almost no drag when pedaling, and though they offer more torque, letting you climb hills quickly and accelerate from stop lights like nameless doped-up ex-racers, the nylon gears can wear out under hard use.