BitLex
02.06.2021 0:57:25
Image Credit: PineRiverGroup.com here
See full version: Is a deck boat appropriate for coastal
Image Credit: PineRiverGroup.com here
Choosing the right dock decking isn't a process to be taken lightly. The two main materials you will decide between are wood and composite decking. Both materials have their own pros and cons. more
Another great idea for private docks is to build a charming walkway connecting land to dock. This particular composite dock has a long pathway through a landscaped area out to a cozy waterfront dock complete with a covered, shaded spot. Even if you only have one boat or even no boat, a deck designed simply for relaxing by the water is of great value.
Wood deck planking is preferred for docks that are designed for residential use or if the design calls for a natural look. Wood deck feels cooler to the touch and is ideal for docks where residents will be spending a lot of time lounging and playing on. here
All of these factors will affect the end design for your dock so be sure to answer them honestly and always err on the side of caution. For many private docks it’s important to consider the range of functionality you’ll need your dock to sustain, since it often becomes a place not only to house your boat but also to support a wealth of fun activities.
As handy as it is, the CSV has limited utility. It accounts for only two factors–displacement and beam–and fails to consider how weight is distributed aboard a boat. For example, if we load our hypothetical 12,000-pound boat with an extra 2,250 pounds for light coastal cruising, its CSV declines to 1.8. Load it with an extra 3,750 pounds for heavy coastal or moderate bluewater use, and the CSV declines still further, to 1.71. This suggests that the boat is becoming more stable, when in fact it may become less stable if much of the extra weight is distributed high in the boat.
For offshore sailing you want a larger margin of safety. Recovering from a knockdown in high winds is one thing, but in a survival storm, with both high winds and large breaking waves, there will be large amounts of extra energy available to help roll your boat past horizontal. There is near-universal consensus that bluewater boats less than 75 feet long should have an AVS of at least 120 degrees. Because larger boats are inherently more stable, the standard for boats longer than 75 feet is 110 degrees. here
The reason 120 degrees is considered the minimum AVS standard for most bluewater boats is quite simple. Naval architects figure that any sea state rough enough to roll a boat past 120 degrees and totally invert it will also be rough enough to right it again in no more than 2 minutes. This, it is assumed, is the longest time most people can hold their breaths while waiting for their boats to right themselves. If you don’t ever want to hold your breath that long, you want to sail offshore in a boat with a higher AVS. here
The relationship between the sizes of the two humps is known as the stability ratio. If you have a stability curve to work from, there are some simple calculations developed by designer Dave Gerr that allow you to estimate the area under each portion of the curve. To calculate the positive energy area (PEA), simply multiply the AVS by the maximum righting arm and then by 0.63: PEA = AVS x max. GZ x 0.63. To calculate the negative energy area (NEA), first subtract the AVS from 180, then multiply the result by the maximum capsizing arm (i.e., the minimum GZ) and then by 0.66: NEA = (180 – AVS) x min. GZ x 0.66. To find the stability ratio divide the positive area by the negative area.
A stability curve is simply a plot of GZ–including both the positive righting arm and the negative capsizing arm–as it relates to angle of heel from 0 to 180 degrees. Alternatively, RM (that is, both the positive righting moment and the negative capsizing moment) can be the basis of the plot, as it derives directly from GZ. (To find RM in foot-pounds, simply multiply GZ in feet by the boat’s displacement in pounds.) In either case, an S-curve plot is typical, with one hump in positive territory and another hopefully smaller hump (assuming the boat in question is a monohull) in negative territory.
ISO-based stability curves do account for a raised cabin house, but not all designers believe this is a good thing. A cabin house only increases reserve stability if it is impervious to flooding when submerged. If it has open hatches or has large windows and apertures that may break under pressure, it will only help a boat capsize and sink that much faster. The ISO formulas fail to take this into account and instead may award high stability ratings to motorsailers and deck-saloon boats with large houses and windows that may be vulnerable in extreme conditions. [links]
Prerequisites: The prerequisites for Coastal Passage Making Certification are both US Sailing Bareboat Cruising and Coastal Navigation Certifications.
Recommended Equipment: It is recommended that Coastal Passage Making Certification courses and examinations be conducted on 30’ to 50’ sloop-rigged cruising keelboats with wheel steering and auxiliary diesel power, and with adequate equipment inventory to complete all required certification outcomes. here
Certification Requirements: Coastal Passage Making Certification requires the successful completion of the following knowledge and skill requirements. These requirements are expected to be performed safely with confident command of the boat, for a distance of at least 50 nautical miles upon coastal waters, with a wind speed of at least 15 knots, including an overnight passage. here
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