See full version: Is there any way to dry transom on boat
I'd cut a few holes through the inner layer of glass with a 1" holesaw, just through the glass, and see what you have underneath. I bet it's worse than you think.
I agree with Tunnels though, quick fix after quick fix is just wasted time and money. Best way to dry boats out is to leave them somewhere in full sun, rig a cover with a strongback and leave the ends open for good air flow. I got a plywood Diamond yacht to lose 100kgs doing that. more
I have popped a few test holes in the transom and everywhere that I have tried the transom is solid and no signs of rot. The transom was dry when I split the hull to take it to my glass guy. Then when I got it back it was wet where he had left the thru hull for the splash well improperly sealed. [links]
i've never actually done this, but as long as the wood hasn't rotted. i had the idea that you might be able to help the drying process if you get a long drill bit, 20-24", 1/2" diameter, if the transom is the "standard" 1 1/2" thick, and drill a series of holes vertically down from the top edge of the transom. this will of course, weaken the transom. then use whatever means you have to get it bone dry. dehumidifiers, heat, whatever. out here in the west, a lot of boating is done in the rivers and lakes of hot, dry mojave desert. when you're sure it's good and dry, get some 1/2" thick hardwood dowels and epoxy them back into the 1/2" holes you drilled into your transom. [links]
New guy to the site, new guy to fiberglass. I have searched the forum and really haven't found any posts that have adressed this specific topic and I need some help. Just wondering what you guys would do to dry out a transom that is wet but still solid. I drilled a couple test holes at the bottom of the transom and the wood around the mounting holes is still solid and am fairly certain that the transom doesnt need replacing yet. The transom has a couple holes that need to be fixed the right way. I dont have a shop or anything like that but I am going to put it on my porch and try to keep it as dry as I can, the fiance is real happy with that one:reddevil:. Just wondering if anyone has a way of doing it that is quick and cheap. I appreciate any help you guys can give me.
Re: Water logged foam. best way to dry out
Re: Water logged foam. best way to dry out
One of the major culprits to water intrusion, water weight and soaked foam are transducer screw-holes. they just are not necessary any longer. unless you can afford the repairs.
Do all boats have this crap? I can't seem to find mine. Or maybe I am just not really wanting to look hard to find the obvious
I'd cut a few holes through the inner layer of glass with a 1" holesaw, just through the glass, and see what you have underneath. I bet it's worse than you think.
I agree with Tunnels though, quick fix after quick fix is just wasted time and money. Best way to dry boats out is to leave them somewhere in full sun, rig a cover with a strongback and leave the ends open for good air flow. I got a plywood Diamond yacht to lose 100kgs doing that. here
i've never actually done this, but as long as the wood hasn't rotted. i had the idea that you might be able to help the drying process if you get a long drill bit, 20-24", 1/2" diameter, if the transom is the "standard" 1 1/2" thick, and drill a series of holes vertically down from the top edge of the transom. this will of course, weaken the transom. then use whatever means you have to get it bone dry. dehumidifiers, heat, whatever. out here in the west, a lot of boating is done in the rivers and lakes of hot, dry mojave desert. when you're sure it's good and dry, get some 1/2" thick hardwood dowels and epoxy them back into the 1/2" holes you drilled into your transom.
Well does anyone know a reputable fiberglass guy around Pensacola? The one that did the shoddy repairs was actually back in Mississippi, not one here. I know that eventually the transom will need replacing, i just wanted to be like every other new guy on here and try to do it cheap the first time only to have to do it again later. I was really looking forward to getting this one on the river this summer before the fourth of July but it is looking less and less like its going to happen. more
I'd cut a few holes through the inner layer of glass with a 1" holesaw, just through the glass, and see what you have underneath. I bet it's worse than you think.
I agree with Tunnels though, quick fix after quick fix is just wasted time and money. Best way to dry boats out is to leave them somewhere in full sun, rig a cover with a strongback and leave the ends open for good air flow. I got a plywood Diamond yacht to lose 100kgs doing that. here
I have popped a few test holes in the transom and everywhere that I have tried the transom is solid and no signs of rot. The transom was dry when I split the hull to take it to my glass guy. Then when I got it back it was wet where he had left the thru hull for the splash well improperly sealed.
The transom is very important for an aluminum boat. So, it required to strengthen the transom to properly maintaining the Boat. In that case, you have to face some questions about how to Reinforce a Transom on an Aluminum Boat.
After applying the Gel, let it dried for 48 hours. When the first side is complete, let it treat overnight and pop it over to prepare the other hand. here
If there is an aluminum cap laterally, the top edge of the transom then replaces it with two pieces of outlet aluminum “L” pieces. It works just okay and gives the transom cap an excellent finishing look. here