See full version: Find the Best Drift Sock Size For You And Your Boat
Trolling rod holder – If I’m trolling I need my rod in a holder that is easy to get to when I have a fish at the other end of the line. The Atwood rod holder can even be locked into place if I’m expecting to a giant fish. [links]
For example, I like to drop waypoints as I’m trolling. Now I can push a single button and the Lowrance HDS-9 LIVE quickly and easily assigns a waypoint to that exact spot! here
Lastly, having the shortcut keys is a phenomenal idea that allowed me to customize my unit for my needs. here
If you love trolling for fish, all day or just part of the day, you’ve likely already thought about buying a drift for your boat. Not only do these drift socks easily slow down your boat, but they are also surprisingly durable and very easy to set up and use.
Wide Brim Fishing Hat – Nowadays, you have to protect yourself against the sun’s harmful rays. Wearing a wide brim hat not only gives you UV protection, but it also keeps you cool. I recommend the Columbia Unisex Bora Bora Booney hat. It fits any size head and it feels really comfortable.
I actually own two of these units… here
You are another victim of the 12/24 wiring scheme that boat manufacturers loved so much. There are a couple of ways to do this. An easy way, and a way to get you in trouble if you are electrically challenged. You are correct in that the batteries are not wired in series at the batteries. You have two separate 12 volt runs (one from each battery) up to the connector. 24 volts was obtained by a jumper inside the trolling motor plug on some motors or by the 12/24 selector switch on motors that could run from either 12 or 24 volts. Here is what you do. [links]
1) Disconnect the orange wire from one battery, and the black wire from the other battery.
2) Tape the ends of those wires as they will ot be used. DON'T CUT THEM OFF.
3) Fabricate a jumper wire and connect it between the terminal that you disconnected the orange wire from, and the negative terminal on the battery that you disconnected the black wire from.
4) Your batteries are now in series and you will have 24 volts on the remaining red/black wire going up front.
5) Look at the receptacle and see which terminals the red and black wire (the 24 volt pair) are connected to.
6) Attach the trolling motor plug to your new motor wires so they match the 24 volt terminals on the receptacle.
7) DO NOT disconnect the orange and black at the receptacle.
8) Go fishing.
The next owner will thank you for not mucking up the original wiring. here
A useful parameter to inform one’s decision on wire gauge is the Amperage of the motor. You do not want to make the mistake of using a wire that is not capable of carrying and transferring the required current between the battery and plug of the motor. The Amperage of your motor can be found in the manual or product specification plate on the motor or better still on the manufacturer’s website.
A general rule of thumb of wires is that- the larger your Amperage, the more the power you need to supply/move, the larger the diameter of the wire, and the greater the length.
In summary, you can follow the steps below to determine the proper wire gauge for your motor: [links]
Have you tried contacting Lund? They would be my first choice to see if you can get the specs. here
I would tend to agree with Navy Jr.- he is probably fairly close.
Best bet is to get it weighed at a truck scale.
Or check current Lund website. Probably not much difference in weight between 2000 and 2011 model years. Boat around 1900 lbs. Then check Merc website. Main motor around 640 lbs (I forgot to check wt of 15hp). And then trailer manufacturer website. Maybe smother 800 lbs. Add weight of fuel, batteries, gear, etc. This should at least get you in the ballpark. Guessing total of around 4,000 lbs.
The motors are a Mercury 225HP and 15HP which are 2001 models. more