Stephen Gornick
02.05.2021 3:36:41
The ratio sail area to displacement can be used to compare the relative sail plan of different sailboats no matter what their size.
See full version: RM 1200
The ratio sail area to displacement can be used to compare the relative sail plan of different sailboats no matter what their size.
i The ratio sail area to displacement is obtained by dividing the sail area by the boat's displaced volume to the power two-thirds.
a DLR less than 180 is indicative of a really light sailboat (race boat made for planning), while a DLR greater than 300 is indicative of a heavy cruising sailboat.
Walk-through is to the port of the engine room and provides access between the main and aft cabins with generous width and headroom. On the inboard wall, there is a large panel that provides excellent engine room access. The electrical breaker panels and monitors are mounted on two hinged teak doors above the engine room access panel. Outboard of the walk-through, from forward to aft respectively, is a radio station with a small desk and cushioned seat. The air conditioning locker topped by a counter, and a hanging locker and enclosed shelves serving the aft cabin [links]
ANCHORS: 35# plow, 35# Danforth. 25' of 3/8" chain with 200' of l" rode and 250' of 5/16" chain for a secondary anchor. At the bow are two anchor rollers and two hawse pipes that lead to separate anchor lockers. Lewmar Pro l 000 electric primary windlass plus backup manual windlass (needs drive chain replacement).
AN ALMOST TOTAL REFIT HAS BEEN DONE ON THIS BOAT [links]
Wandering Star is an extremely strong cruiser, safe, comfortable, and sturdy, with an interior as roomy, or roomier than a Morgan OI-41, and she is eager to go cruising again. She is currently located in Ingleside on the Bay, TX. more
I tried twisting and pulling as much as I could without stressing or cracking the thin plywood backing. [links]
I ended up cutting the headliner material around the base of the reading light just to get the piece down and out of the way. Still don't see any screws either on the visible part or the hidden parts of the light. No screws protruding through the backside of the plywood. No bracket or threaded rod with a nut to route the wires like you would see on a lamp or hanging light in your house.
Beneath the base is likely a metal frame with screws attaching the light to the backing of the headliner. On my boat (not a Hunter) the backing is a thin sheet of plywood. [links]
If no screw, then the base may be held in place by friction. more
Next step will be to start prying with a tool. The base is very thin metal so I know that will bend and deform the metal. Was trying to avoid destroying the light.
When I opened up the boat, removing the tattered shrink-wrap and Bill’s plywood, I found water inside numerous compartments. The engine room was completely flooded, containing perhaps 100 gallons of water. There was extensive mold everywhere, and damp plywood under the water in places
even though everything had been sealed with penetrating epoxy. I used my shop-vac to suck out most of the water, but I had to use a transfer pump to start a siphon in the engine compartment. It took over an hour to drain.
here
Using a router template for beam- and hatch carlin-end mortises Douglas fir side deck beams glued and sealed in place
Starting the turn--we had to beef up the turning wheels in situ! Half way--the next part is tricky!
Drawers with beveled yellow birch faces The drop leaf tables, made from yellow birch and mahogany
here
Time elapsed was six months, and total expenses were $8,500. Total work time elapsed was now one year, and total expenses were now $24,500.