[chmod755]

A fair bit. You have to disconnect the racks as the governor is mounted on the blower, plus the fuel lines since the fuel pump is mounted there too. It also has a shatload of oil that pools in it that doesn't drain out when you shut down, which means it will make a hell of a mess. There's an inside snap-ring that retains the driveshaft for the blower you have to remove from the rear to extract the blower driveshaft - and you CANNOT drop that inside the gear train or you're in BIG trouble. Stuff a shop rag in there good so if you DO drop it it doesn't go down inside the engine! You know Murphy, right? [links]

[Johnpatter]

Seriously, you CAN get DD's to essentially not leak at all but it does take some work, sometimes including truing mating surfaces that have been warped by overtightening.

[spidr_mnky]

Look under the valve cover on the cylinder head, aft. There are small rectangular covers with a bolt on each end longitudinally. One will have a pipe going through it (it's the air pipe for the throttle modulator, and goes to the air horn); the other will be a blank plate. Oil pools in the inside of the cylinder head against them and for some unknown reason they seep oil on every 6v92 I've ever seen. Not a lot, but they do - just enough to be a PITA. [links]

[stone]

into the back of the block - you'll go nuts thinking the seal is leaking and replace it, only to have it STILL leak. This one drove me nuts for a while until I figured out where it was coming from on my boat. here

[idev]

If the blower isn't leaking (you can see the oil under the boot and in the back of the blower if it is) then don't screw with it. If it IS leaking, consider the below if the leak is coming from the boot (and it probably is). [links]

[carol88miller]

Narrowboat Prop-shaft coupling

[alowm]

If this becomes a regular occurrence it’s time to question ‘why’? Ask an engineer in to check the engine over as the engine maybe out of alignment, have damaged engine mounts or a faulty coupling. Awareness is the key to maintenance in this case.

[vfdsaq]

Make sure your engine is turned off and that the engine room is safe to enter before you start any work:

[jago25_98]

Stuffing Boxes

[RudeDude]

Additionally, the instructions caution against re-using the set screws, because the cupped points become flattened and lose their effectiveness. These guidelines are critically important. If the stainless collar becomes loose on the shaft it can move away from the carbon face, allowing water into the bilges. Face seals are reliable and easily maintained when the faces are kept clean. If the boat sits for long periods or if you run through sandy shallow water, particulates on the face can damage the seal. Clean the surface with a rag as needed. If the carbon face seal needs replacing (some can be refaced), you will need to haul your boat and pull the shaft from the coupling so that the replacement can slide onto the end of the shaft. Loss of water flow to the seal is the number one cause of failures, followed by particulates getting caught between the seal faces. Properly maintained, replacements are not common, and the manufacturers report more than 20,000 to 30,000 hours of use on a single carbon seal in commercial applications.

[iLoveMjesica]

On the PSS, set screws hold the stainless collar in place, and failure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions leads to failures. The collar has two threaded holes and comes with four set screws. Those are not spares—the instructions specifically state that two set screws must thread into each hole. The first one compresses against the shaft to keep the collar from slipping, and the second one prevents the first screw from backing out.

[thomascaulk]

Re the "opposing hammers": Hammer in each hand, hitting simultaneously on opposing sides of the coupling. In your case I doubt that you'll have much room to do this because the shaft seems to be in a 'trough'.

[dhaniellemar63]

Go easy. what would you rather replace, the shaft or the gear box? If you use the nut sandwich idea you can easily bugger up the flange on the gear box.

[jimmyrdavenport]

Dont know if you saw this video on You tube, showing the tried and tested method of using a socket placed between the end of the shaft, and the transmission, then re inserting the bolts and tightening up on the coupling fixing bolts - the socket acts to push out the shaft from the coupling (imagine taking a bottle of wine and putting the tip of your finger on the cork and pushing in on the cork as hard as possible, the cork will slowly push down through the neck of the bottle, your finger being the socket and the cork being the shaft) . See. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qM45997JCRI here

[senwoarn99]

Any ideas how I can get the coupling off? here

[uanisawatkinsz]

I guess if I am lucky, hitting the small end may release it. If not I'm not sure I would be confident trying to drill it out.

[distant]

Are there any other options? [links]