madhatter
29.05.2021 0:46:55
No spare parts are available for this product here
See full version: Flush Pro
No spare parts are available for this product here
No certifications are associated with this product
Like all Perko products, Flush Pro™ valves are made in the USA.
Flush Pro™ valves offer one of the easiest to use flushing systems available for inboard engines. Simply unscrew the Flush Pro™ cap, connect a standard garden hose, turn on the water and start your engine. The Flush Pro™ valve automatically pulls fresh water into the boat's cooling system - even if the boat is in the water - flushing out the entire cooling system with fresh water. When done, shut off the engine, turn off & disconnect the hose and replace the Flush Pro™ cap. Your engine is flushed. more
Flush Pro™ also makes winterizing easy. Simply close your seacock after the system is drained, take off the Flush Pro™ cap & drop the 5/8" winterizing fitting into the Flush Pro™ valve. Insert one end of a 5/8" tube into the fitting and the other end into your antifreeze. Start your engine & run until the proper amount of antifreeze is sucked into the engine. Remove the winterizing fitting, replace the cap on the Flush Pro™ valve & you're ready for below freezing temperatures. more
Lenny,I installed a set up that worked great on a 5.7 alpha.You need to have room to get to the block petcocks.I replaced them with barbed brass fittings and ran heater hose off of them and connected them with a y fitting going into a single length of heater hose and ran that up to the rear of the cockpit to a water outlet fitting with a cap on it.I would remove the cap and put a quick connect on it each time i used the boat and let hose water run in at low pressure for the time it took me to clean and close up the boat.Worked great.Unfortunately my current boat has twin v8s and I dont have the room to put that kind of setup in so I bring my drives all the way up and lay on the swim platform ,roll up my sleeves and reach down and slip on the muffs.I insert an ice pick through one side of the muffs and into the intake so they dont slip off.Its a pain ,but it is surely worth it.Charlie more
Re: Flush kit for Mercruiser [links]
charlie,<br />I also have a twin with no room at all. It is so limited on space that I have to use a mirror for things like changing spark plugs. I would have to pull the engine to reach the bilge pump, unless someone lowers me in on the winch vertically, head down I will look into Perko Flushpro.<br />I also have no swim platform as I have thru-hull exhaust in place where it could be. Can't reach drives and do not flush now. Still need solution to get it setup for easy flush. <br />Thanks to all. more
Re: Flush kit for Mercruiser
If you can mount the flush kit before both coolers, then those coolers would be flushed while youre flushing the engine. Since the flush kit is after our power steering cooler, its possible that it will not be flushed since while the engine is running its probably sucking all of the water into the engine and isnt letting any flow back out the out-drive. Once you turn the engine off its possible that the raw water impeller stops flow so the flow would then go back out of the Out drive. more
Re: Install flush attachment on Mercruiser 4.3L MPI [links]
If you do plumb into that main line, you must make 100% sure its sealed good. If any air gets in it will suck air in and not pull water up from the out drive. more
That seems like it would work but I was hoping to save some cash and build my own attachment out of plumbing parts. I should just be able to T into the main hose from the power steering cooler? I'm just not sure what hose that is.
I do have a hot water heater tank that has a garden hosebib coming out of it? . Not sure if that has anything to do with hot/cold water issue you addressed here
let me know about the heat exchanger or send another photo with full view of the engine and I can further assist you!
There is no heat exchanger and I it's not a closed loop cooling system. (Raw water)
Yes that is to flush your engine with fresh water. I cannot quite tell from your photos, but it appears your engine does not have a closed loop system (heat exchanger) which is the same as a radiator in a car/truck. for what it's worth the engine looks clean and well maintained from what I see. just seeing that setup alone make me think whoever you bought that from took great care of that engine. here
On that note: Have you inspected the impeller since you bought the boat? If not I would. and if its on the engine, it's always best to familiarize yourself with how to change it at the dock first. They usually have three screws on the faceplate and they are 7/16" hex bolt head, use a wrench or socket, but BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING because you can easily twist the head right off. Then your screwed with a capital F! On some pumps you can see the bolt thread sticking out the rear of the pump housing. just turn them (counter clockwise) a little to see if they are in fact turning if they are, shoot some WD40 or PB Blaster (penetrating oil) on them and let them soak for a few mins then slowly turn them out. If they appear to NOT be turning soak them with either fluid and let them sit for ten minutes then try again. once you get them out, take of the faceplate and the gasket and grab the impeller hub with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull it straight out. BE CAREFUL BECAUSE THERE MAY BE A KEY! this is a pice of round or square stock. If not it may have a spline or D shape shaft. if it's stuck, spray it down and soak/wait. if that does not work you will have to get a puller. once you do get it out inspect for any chips or cracks and make sure it's flexible. if its hard to bend and stiff or holding a crunched up shape, it's time to change it. There is also a CAM or "Wear Plate) in the housing that is held in with one screw. This plate tends to wear out (becomes flat) over time, especially if you operation in shallow sandy waters, and this too need to be changed periodically, but not so much if you just fish open waters. put it back together with a new impeller, and cam if needed, in the order you removed everything, but make sure to coat the impeller shaft and screw threads heavily with anti-sieze paste or at least some thick grease. This will make it EZ to change the next time and that could be when the water is FULL OF FOAMERS! [links]