JonCage
08.05.2021 23:28:16
Re: Mercury Black Max 150 XR2 Running Rough!
See full version: Mercury Black Max 150 XR2 Running Rough
Re: Mercury Black Max 150 XR2 Running Rough!
Just ordered the Seloc book as this engine is very intimidating currently.. My first thought after reading some of the online Seloc material is possibly the Fuel Enigizer is hanging up. Any advice would be appreciated.
Re: Mercury Black Max 150 XR2 Running Rough! [links]
3900 RPMs and is real rough. When this happens I can take it out of gear and I still have the same results - rough running and only about 3900 RPMs.
3rd is make sure the water tube is aligned properly when you put it back together.
2nd is there is a bolt under the trim tab(zinc sacrificial anode). This drove me nutz the first time, and I had a service manual to look at when I changed it.
I replace mine on every outboard I have ever owned. It's very simple.
1) Make sure you have it out of gear
2) remove all the nuts and one bolt toward the back. You
may have to remove the torque tab.
3) Carefully lower the lower unit until the shaft clears the
leg ( mid section). There may be a rubber tube that
needs to be removed for the speedo.
4) Remove the bolts from the impeller housing. Should be
three bolts.
5) Slide the housing off the shaft.
6) The impeller may come off with the housing. If not just
slide it off while being careful not to lose the key if it
Comes off.
8) Clean and inspect the housing and impeller base plate
which will still be on the lower unit.
9) if you see any gaulding or damage on the inside of the
housing or base plate, replace it. Also check for cracks
in the housing.
10) Slide the new impeller on the shaft.
11) Then lube the inner race of the housing and slide it
over the shaft. You may have to twist the housing
counter clockwise to get it to slide over the impeller.
12) Install the three bolts in the housing.
13) carefully slide the lower unit back up in the leg guiding
the shaft in to the hole leading to the crank shaft.
14) Make sure you reconnect the speedo tube if need be,
then if you are lucky it will slide up in place. You may
Have to help guide the tube down over the impeller
Housing. If the lower unit doesn't slide in place, have
some one to pull the kill switch and bump the starter
while you push the LU up. It will slide right in place. [links]
As a first time changer, it would be best with 2 people. The lower unit can be heavy and awkward by yourself.
1st key is put the motor in gear before dropping the lower unit. This will be crucial in getting it back together correctly.
it doesn't. what "heat" part or ya referin' too? here
tha tan is right.. later models it would be tan/blue. tha early harness MAY NOT have tha extra temp wire.. if thats tha case you will need to run another wire all tha way to tha dash that connects to tha sender wire on tha port head. what colors are ALL tha short "pig tails" attached to tha male end of tha harness?
The only tan wire coming from harness is connected to terminal block and then the over heat sensor connects at same terminal block. Why would something for heat connect to a red wire that goes up to the Strator?
I'm guessing the red wire is power to the oil alert module that isn't working. To find out for sure, RTFM. here
Skeeter told you to get a copy of the factory manual. In said manual is a wiring diagram. In that diagram you'll find both the location and the color code of the wire for the temp gauge where it appears in the dash wiring harness connected to your controls. more