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Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
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Testing in the water with 2 new filters, fuel line, cleaned out VST, Lift Pump, both electric pumps, and all lines. Using my gas, new plugs, and my harness. Same problem just happens after about 10 min now. Then won't even idle. Checking fuel pressure now I'm only getting 80 PSI on the fuel and on the air. here
After new pumps installed. [links]
2006 2.5L 150hp optimax
1095 hours
Hmmm. So i pulled the regulator and the tracker diaphram on the port and starboard fuel rail. Looked fine. Inspected for holes tiny pinholes. Look minty. Reinstalled. Pulled the Air regulator on the port side. Screen was almost fully clogged with small debris. Cleaned it and reinstalled it. Tried to run it again and now the problem is even worse. Still 10 PSI low on pressure. Manually tested and verified all pumps are getting power. Manually triggered while running. No pressure change. Replaced both low and high pressure electronic pumps. This is where it gets interesting. [links]
Engine runs for about 45 min. After around 45, the engine slowly looses RPM. When this happens it will only get around 3000 RPM. Feels like it either lost a cylinder or starving for fuel. Problem gets worse the longer you drive it. Gets to the point when you cannot start the machine. Fuel pressure was at 90 PSI ( however the needle bounces very rapidly ) and air pressure at 80 PSI. Let it sit and cool down and repeat exact same scenario.
Install the two nuts onto the tap bolt using the top nut as a lock for the lower nut. more
1 - 3/8-16 x 4? Tap Bolt
1 ? 3/8 x 1 ?? Fender Washer
3 ? 3/8-16 Hex Nuts
5 - #8 x 1? Pan head Phillips Sheet Metal
Put the washer in the top of the filter and mark and predrill holes for the sheet metal screws. here
Install the two nuts onto the tap bolt using the top nut as a lock for the lower nut.
I guess a design change between 06 and 08.
more
Are the fittings in good shape? Can you take it to a hydraulic hose manufacturer and have them replace the hose and re-crimp the fittings? If you have a Napa auto parts store nearby, ask them. They usually make hoses in-house as well.
Update: I removed the fuel hose assembly. I found the leak in the hose; It looks like the hose just ruptured probably from age and maybe a bit of rubbing against other hoses and harnesses. here
My approach is to try to replace the hose itself. I was able to remove the crimped sleeve by cutting it open using a Dremmel and abrasive disk. It took a bit of time to cut. Then I had to kind of bend and pry to loosen the hose and yank it out. The cut sleeve then just slid off. The hose was labelled Fuel Injection and that is what I have on order. In addition, I ordered injection hose clamps and new orings for the fittings that plug into the fuel rails. FYI, the stem that the hose was crimped on is about 1 1/2 inches long and has a small lip (not exactly a true barb) on its end.