gilbertj0hn
29.04.2021 23:16:23
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Common problems we find when rebuilding Meyer E-47 pumps. more
7-11-17 Common E-47 Problems Two more pages added. READ THIS BEFORE you rebuild yours!
MeyerE-72.com - A NEW (March 2011) Hydraulic unit made for Meyer by Monarch, that comes with a 5 YEAR WARRANTY when purchased as part of a complete new plow system.
MeyerRoadPro.com - The Road Pro replaced the HM Series.
Then of course there is the "Baffle installed wrong": [links]
Broken Crossover Relief Valve Spring. This typically happens when the spring is rusty and fatigued. One good hit and the spring shatters. For whatever reason, the spring stopped getting oil, or got a water and oil mix that caused it to rust. Another possibility is lack of use in that the Crossover Relief Valve did not open for a long time.
When we rebuild pumps in our shop, we always try to remove the PA Block, but, if the bolts seem like they are going to strip then we leave the PA Block on. Why? Because it is not imperative that it be removed during a rebuild. The only benefits to removing it during a rebuild are that you can change those 3 little O Rings you can see in the pic, and it will be easier to remove the bolts again at a later date. I have never seen one of those little O Rings in the above pic blow out, or leak, unless somehow the PA Block Bolts came loose, and if that is the case, then there is no problem getting the bolts out. A reason to have to remove the PA Block would be to inspect it for cracks in the filter port casting, which would be indicated by a pretty severe fluid leak between the Sump Base and the PA Block. When that is the case (severe leak) 90% of the time the Sump Base is cracked, and needs to be replaced anyway. The other 10% of the time the leak is due to one of the steel balls that are pressed in after drilling the passageways in the PA Block blowing out. Stubborn bolts you can often get out by heating the heads of the bolts (in the countersunk holes in the PA Block) with an Oxy/Acetylene torch. Usually about 30 seconds of heat is enough to loosen them. This is not going to work if you already tried and stripped the heads of the bolts. You often only get one chance. IF the bolts do not want to move, apply more heat. Do not risk stripping them because you are impatient.
A somewhat common problem we find when rebuilding Meyer E-47, E-57, and E-60 plow pumps is the bolts holding the PA Block to the Sump Base are stripped. Not the thread portion, but rather the Allen head of the bolts. While these bolts are not torqued super tight during assembly, they can be tough to get loose due to galvanic corrosion. The galvanic corrosion occurs due to dissimilar metals being put together. In other words, a steel bolt is threaded into the aluminum casting that is also used as a ground for the electric motor. What we find is that the heads of the PA Block Bolts tend to corrode far more than the thread portion of the bolts. Years ago I went as far as going to a machine shop next door, and having the heads milled off the bolts, thinking the block would come right off. Nope. We still had to beat the block loose with a rawhide mallet, and it put up a good fight!
Follow the steps outlined for the E-47 unit above. Remove the Vent/Fill Plug, then the Drain Plug. The difference is that you will need a 1/4" Allen Wrench to remove the Drain Plug on the E-60. Another reason to remove the E-60 from the vehicle is that there is a Filter Plug on the back of the unit. It is typically not easy to get to when mounted on the vehicle. The other Filter Plug is on the front of the unit. There will be what looks like two Filter Plugs on the front. The one on the left is NOT a Filter, it is the Drop Speed Adjusting Screw. The one on the right is the other Filter. Follow the steps for the E-47 above to flush and blow out the inside of the unit. Refill as outlined above. The difference is that the E-60 holds over a quart of fluid, and the H Model holds almost 2 quarts. Better use the larger drain pan I mentioned above.
Some of the early E-58H units had the filter in the lower port on the front in addition to the one in the bottom of the PA Block. IF you find a filter on the front, remove it and save it as a spare for the High Pressure Filter (the higher one on the front). There is no reason to have two filters. here
On this page - Checking the fluid level in Meyer snow plow pumps including, Meyer E-46, Meyer E-47, Meyer E-57, Meyer E-60, Meyer V-66, Meyer E-68, Meyer E-88, Meyer E-72, Meyer E-73, Meyer V-70, Meyer V-71. Where to check the level, how to check the level, how and where to add fluid.
The wrench in the top of the pic is a "normal" wrench, the bottom one is ground thinner. [links]
The V Plow Bucher (Monarch) hydraulic units, V-70, and V-71 both wings need to be folded back (V Position), then the Lift Arm needs to be pushed all the way down by hand, and then you can check the fluid level. Like the straight plow Bucher units, they have a plastic tank with the fill line marked on them like the E-72 pictured above. Early V-70 units had a steel tank, in that case, the fluid should be to the bottom of the threads of the fill hole.