BrightAnarchist
28.05.2021 15:59:27
But if you don’t understand the mechanics of your car very well or it’s a more serious blockage, it’s best to seek expert help. here
See full version: Why is my car juddering, jerking or stuttering and what should I do
But if you don’t understand the mechanics of your car very well or it’s a more serious blockage, it’s best to seek expert help. here
What could the problem be?
The engine may also be much noisier than it normally is, sounding more like an aeroplane taking off than a car.
To help you understand the cause of that worrying movement you’re feeling behind the wheel, we look at some different scenarios and what you should do when faced with them…
How to fix it more
99% of the time, this problem is due to a bad or intermittent connection between the motor and ESC. This usually takes the form of a broken connector, a damaged wire, or a non-conductive solder joint (cold, broken, or otherwise worthless), but can also be due to motor windings damaged by overheating, crashing, or baby teething. Problem areas can be hidden by heatshrink or insulation and may not always be obvious, so a thorough inspection may be required. more
Firstly, you almost certainly can't destroy an ESC if the motor fails to start. Most ESC's have built-in protection against a failed start and will shut off if the motor doesn't start correctly within a few seconds. It is possible that the ESC may heat up a bit at this time, so if the motor doesn't start, don't keep trying it! here
Here's the benefit of my many years' experience. [links]
OK, I have a problem sorta-kinda like this on my Skimmer, when I throttle up the motor stutters until I'm almost at full throttle then it starts up and runs fine at all settings. This is a brushless outrunner (AXi Gold 2212-34) on a 3cell Lipo turning an AreoNaut 10x7 CAM folding prop. MotoCalc OK'ed this combo so I don't think its being overburdened. What would you suggest?
What's happening is as follows: [links]
What's happening is as follows:
The batteries I'm testing with are all charged and almost brand new so the ESC isn't in low voltage protection mode. I've also tried dorking with the End point adjustments in the TX to make sure it wasn't set to anything weird. And I've gone through and tested all the connections between the ESC and Motor, which are all good. Again, the motor behaves fine when already spinning. The issue is only with the initial torque required to spin the prop.
I tried digging through various forums trying to find an answer for this but I have yet to find anyone with the exact same set of symptoms as me. [links]
Transmitter is turned on, plane electronics are powered up by plugging in the battery, and the motor makes its preflight beeps. If I start to throttle up on the Tx to quickly the motor will start to twitch about, flinging the propeller randomly left and right without ever making a full rotation. If throttle is applied very slowly then the prop will gradually spool up and then once everything is moving I'm able to make quick throttle adjustments without any problems. It's just the initial start from a standstill where the motor has to overcome the zero kinetic energy of the prop and get it spinning that causes it to start twitching. more
Any help would be appreciated. I've drawing a blank on what the problem could be. If I need to buy a new motor, so be it. I just want to know if anyone else has seen this. here
Below are the instructions to initialize the ESC:
We also have a video which shows the complete process at the bottom of this article.
With Spektrum, their radio's default setting is to have all the trim tabs centered, including the throttle. For FMS and Freewing ESCs, they interpret the centered throttle as meaning that the throttle stick is up a little bit when the battery is plugged in, so as a safety precaution, the motor doesn't arm (imagine if a prop was connected, that would be bad!).
If your controls work, but your motor doesn't power up, don't panic! It is likely that your ESC needs to be initialized. As a safety precaution, many modern ESCs need to be initialized and calibrated to your radio's throttle range, before the ESC will allow the motor to spin.