See full version: Solve Your Outboard Motor Problems: Starting, Fuel, Shear Pins
Shear pin or hub insert
To prevent gearbox damage if the propeller strikes a solid object, the prop of an older outboard is driven via a shear pin, a weak link that breaks before anything else in the system. Such engines normally have provision for carrying spares under the engine cowling – it’s worth carrying a few. They can be quickly replaced after removing the prop, but make sure there’s no chance anyone can start the engine while you’re working on it. [links]
Before starting, make sure the throttle is in the 'start’ position, the fuel is turned on, the vent for the tank is open, and if it's a remote tank give a couple of squeezes of the bulb in the fuel line. The start cord is often longer than most operators realize – make sure you’re standing somewhere where you’re well braced and can give a really long pull. more
Need some engine parts to get the job done? Visit the Boats.com Gear and Parts Store.
Removing the carburetor float. more
If you do have problems, you’ll need to clean the carburetor jets – this is a straightforward task, but in most cases it means removing the unit from the engine. Start by removing the air cowling, then disconnect the choke linkage, throttle cable, and fuel line. The nuts holding the unit in place can then be unscrewed; if you drop one, make sure you recover it before removing the carburetor. [links]
Then turn the carburetor upside down and remove the screws holding the bowl in place. With this removed, the plastic float can be lifted out, along with the hinge pin for the lever above the needle jet. It’s now possible to see the condition of both jets – if these are dirty they should be soaked overnight in carb cleaner, then cleaned with a blast of compressed air.
My name is JOHN C PAYNE, and many of you may already have one of my books on marine electrical and electronics systems (The recently published Marine Electrical and Electronics Bible now in it’s 4th Edition) or perhaps one of the many other books on sailboats and yacht systems.
This is the best Suzuki Outboard Forum on the internet, it's yours! If you own a Suzuki Outboard. Are you looking for good advice about your Suzuki outboard engine problems and issues. All you need to know about your outboard engine issues and good advice from your fellow boaters.
I am not an armchair expert, but a qualified and practising marine electrician and engineer and a marine surveyor. I do this for a living. Let this website help you with the boat forum! Thousands of people input with answers to problems.
*If leaded gasoline is used, engine damage may result. Use only unleaded gasoline.* here
Use only oils that are rated SE, SF, SG, SH, or SJ under the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification system. The viscosity rating should be SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 motor oil is not available, select an alternative according to the chart. [links]
Suzuki highly recommends that you use alcohol-free unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump octane rating of 87 (R+M / 2 method) or 91 (Research method). However, blends of unleaded gasoline and alcohol with equivalent octane content may be used. Allowable maximum blend of a single additive (not combination): 5% Methanol, 10% Ethanol, 15% MTBE
Don’t forget to check our Technical Library for other related articles for Suzuki Outboard Motors, as well Suzuki Engine specifications. We also have the How-To Video Library with various technical videos addressing things such as replacing your Suzuki Fuel Pump.
3. Water accumulating on top of fuel tank below floor. Thee have been cases where water gets onto the top of the tank (possibly by condensation, or thru a inspection hatch) and pools around the tank sender unit connection or take off fittings, and leaks slowly into the tank due to bad gaskets on those fittings. Check and replace gasket if required. Find out how water is getting onto top of tank and rectify. here
Remember when you are at speed, the tank vent will be "inhaling" air to replace fuel that the engine is using from the tank. Make sure the vent fitting is not placed in a position that could allow spray to be sucked in, or that might allow rain or other water to get drawn into the tank. [links]
Now if you just happen to be already using non-ethanol gas, you have a bigger problem. You're getting water in the tank somehow. That's a whole 'nother ball game.
There are only a limited number of ways for water to get into the fuel tank. You need to systematically eliminate them. Also, since you obviously still have water in the tank now, it would be highly recommended to drain the tank entirely and ensure all water is gotten out.
If you can't find the non-ethanol good stuff, then try putting into the tank only what you figure you'll use in a day. Not really a good option, of course, for obvious reasons. But the main thing is when/if you store your boat in the winter, or go long periods between uses, either empty the tank, or have it completely full. Never store your boat for long periods of time with a half-full tank. You're just asking for trouble.