[Vorlon]

I have a 2000 50HP J50PLSSM motor. I pulled the boat out to get it ready to take fishing for the first time in about 9 months. I was running fine when I last used it but I went ahead and drained all of the fuel and replaced with new fuel. I placed the water hose adaptor on and attempted to start the motor. The motor would run but quickly die. After checking the fuel system out I received some advice to check the spark with a spark tester. When I did this I was only getting spark across a 7/16 gap on cylinder #2. Below is what I have tested along with the results and what I have replaced.

[rmelanimek]

Timing sensor:
Ohm test I have the 3 pin connector and I had 26 ohms from both the B-A and the B-C pins.
Tested voltage to ground with engine cranking - All 3 terminals did not show any voltage. Manal indicates that is a good thing.
Peak voltage test - Placed the adaptor on my multimeter and the DC indication was 2 on B-C and 2.5 on B-A. Manual indicates .5 or higher is good. here

[lachesis]

Question: Would the low voltage from the charge coil cause a no spark on one cylinder?

[taiki]

now the DX,VX andSX150TXRB uses a totally different setup. they use 6 pulser coils and the charge coils are bank to bank rather high or low speeds.

[kytradersclassifieds]

Rodbolt,
Thanks for your input. I've been on work travel for the past month plus, so just getting around to changing out the cdi. Still same issue. Is there anything I'm missing here that can cause no spark on just one side? I rechecked everything to confirm and noticed that I get a momentary spark on 1-3-5 just once during cranking. Like it works but does not continue. Summers almost over here in NJ and I'm getting desperate. I just ordered the pulser coil realizing that it is not likely but don't know what else to check. I also swapped out the crank position sensor from a friend with no change. here

[kashiffarooq2003]

Thanks for entertaining my questions! here

[binarysecurity]

Txrb 150 no spark cylinders 1-3-5 [links]

[Luke-Jr]

Well it turns out it was the power pack. I replaced it and it has spark on both sides now. The spark on the starboard side is stronger but I think it will run fine when I get the carbs cleaned. I won't even try to start it until then. here

[HarryStottle]

Is the 1990 dt150, efi also, Or carburetor version?

[aceat64]

If the switch is supposed to be open/ closed, this can indicate a problem to control module, and put motor in limp mode. If the control module senses a problem it may shut down 2 cyl, 3 cyl (one side), to respond to the error. [links]

[sevyanfellow]

Orange Green to Black Green 3.4
Resistance 194

[krs]

In the earlier motors the heat sensors, flow/temp sensors, and oil sensors could shut down one bank from firing, if not getting good readings.

[Fecn]

Ah, yes — 13.49 is more like it. Now there should be plenty of fire in the hole! All that remains is to install it in the car, connect the leads to the terminals, plug in the distributor cable and start her up!

[Vasiliev]

The ignition coil is truly an amazing little device. An ignition coil is a type of pulse transformer that multiplies the low voltage received from the battery or alternator to many thousands of volts when the breaker points open and close. The coil contains a primary winding, a slot iron core, and a secondary winding. The high voltage output of the coil is directed to the appropriate spark plug by the distributor. Hence, without this high voltage, there is no spark and, consequently, internal combustion cannot take place within the engine. Simply put, the bottom line is without spark the engine doesn't run. So that's why when my 1963 Corvette kept cranking but wouldn't start, after making sure there was fuel entering the engine, the next thing to check was that there was spark to ignite the fuel. The coils on early Corvettes are black cylindrical devices; starting in 1975 the coil per se as a discrete cylindrical device was abandoned when GM made the switch to HEI breakerless ignition systems. The information I'm providing here, however, applies to all GM vehicles of the period and broadly applies to virtually any 12-volt vehicle with a discrete ignition coil.

[kbelanger]

Here's the primary reading on the new replacement GM Delco coil before I installed it. The 1.6 reading is exactly what it should be but, again, the real telling is what the secondary resistance reading is.

[marcelus23]

Use a nut driver or a small wrench to loosen the securing nuts on the coil terminals and remove the leads; the positive side of the coil has a condenser lead attached in addition to a positive lead. Then loosen the bottom clamp screw, pull out the center cable that goes to the distributor and remove the coil. Alternatively, you can check the coil right in the car with your multimeter if you remove all three leads first. here

[llama]

Replace the coil with a good quality new one, make sure you attach and tighten the leads correctly, plug in the top cable that goes to the distributor, turn the key and you should be good to go! here

[rjebro]

This reading of 8.84 does indicate that the coil's secondary windings are not putting out as much voltage as they should; the minimum acceptable resistance reading here should be 11.00, with approximately 13.5 being normal. [links]