See full version: Fixing Oil-Filled Spark Plug Wells
The spark plug wires, for instance, can break down in a variety of ways that will cause a vehicle's Check Engine light to come on. You should inspect your spark plug wires for breaks in the insulation regularly as this can lead to arcing and a weak spark or no spark at all, which ultimately affects your gas mileage. [links]
Ideally, you or a mechanic should check your valve cover gaskets, O-ring seals, pistons, piston compression rings, and valve guides to rule out any possibility of further damage than the surface-level valve seal.
When a spark plug well fills with oil, it means that the O-ring that seals the well to keep out oil and debris has deteriorated and started to leak. Although the leak can sometimes be fixed by tightening the valve cover bolts, more often than not the valve cover gasket and well seals will need to be replaced. here
Oftentimes, this will require replacing your spark plug wires, which should happen every 30,000 miles regardless of engine performance—if you're changing the spark plugs, consider changing the wires at the same time.
It's important to keep in mind that it's not always necessary to replace your spark plug wells entirely. Oftentimes, just replacing parts of the valve, especially the cover, will suffice for fixing an oil-filled spark plug well.
If the gasket is not well sealed around the spark plug, it is likely to allow oil to leak into that area, which will pool and eventually cause problems for the engine as outlined above. Although this is the most common cause of the issue, a failing piston or worn valve guides can also cause this issue, so your mechanic should investigate those as well. here
In addition to KustomKarl. [links]
I have a 1989 SeaDoo XP. Been setting for about 6 months with a motor rebuild in August of 07. I take it to the water and starts up just after 4 tries. However, when the throttle is hit, the ski will die. Took it out of the water, and brought it back to the house. Popped out the plugs, and a little bit of oil is on both plugs. They are certainly fouled out, but why would the oil be on the plugs. I know with my car, it means most likely the valve cover or head gasket is blown.
In addition to what Karl has said, you may want to look on the front of the engine where your oil pump is, check to see that the cable responds to opening and closing the throttle. If you had an engine rebuild, did they re-syncronize the oil injection pump to the carbs. The possibility of injecting to much oil will certainly foul plugs.
There is one other thing that may be of concern but for now, file it away in the back of your head. The rotary valve chamber is located between the two connecting rods of the crankshaft. This chamber is kept filled with oil from your oil tank. There is a seal on either side to keep the oil from leaking into the combustion sides of the pistons. If one or both of these seals are leaking, this will cause fouling. But too, if the engine had a fresh rebuild and the engine set for any period of time, the oil could have seeped slowly over time and you may just need to burn or blow it out.
I'd go with Karl's ideas, then turn to my post if you don't get safisfactory results. Karls touching base on all the probable causes from a sitting up condition and what happens to fuels and oils. lacquering, etc.
Good luck and let us know what you find out. cheers: here
Welcome to the seadoo forum devguys. First off the XP is a 2 stroke engine. It is not like you car. Your car is a 4 stroke engine with a cam and valves. It is nothing like you xp. Is the gas new or the left over fuel from 6 months ago? Did you winterize it or prepare it for the no running time? It should have fresh gas to run properly. I would locate the fuel / water separator on the fuel line and check it for contaminates and dump out the bad fuel and add fresh to the separator too. It holds about maybe 6 oz. of fuel. Change the plugs and than run it for a couple minutes on the hose before going to the water. Use the choke and let it warm up for a couple minutes. Don't let the XP run too long on the hose as it will not be able to cool the impeller or the bearings on the impeller shaft because it isn't in the water. After a short run on the hose put it back in the water and let it warm up before you leave the dock area. If it still gives you trouble it could be that the carbs need to be cleaned. Let us know how you make out and if it still is giving you problems we go a little further to help you get it running.
I've got a similar problem w/ my 90 SP. Does anyone know where this 6oz. fuel separator is located? Mine only seems to have an in line filter that holds about 1/2 oz.
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So. I know that this is somewhat of a tackled subject, both here and on other web sites dealing with both automotive and marine engines. I am just wondering however, if in my case I am dealing with simply a failing valve cover gasket, or worst case a possible leaky piston chamber (I freaking hope not), or other issue that could cause this.
My question at this point is, considering the number of hours, the amount of oil missing etc., is this probably more serious than a valve cover gasket issue? Should I try tightening the valve cover (check by tightening to torque spec and see if the bolts are not torqued all the way) before ordering a new gasket? If it is the valve cover I would imagine there'd be oil pouring down the sides of the engine or pulling somewhere other than inside the spark plug wells? [links]
When I changed the oil and filter last week, as well as spark plugs before my first launch of 2021, I noticed the oil was about 1/3rd to half less than it should be, and that's when I noticed the oil on the spark plug threads. The engine/boat only has 111 hours on it. The engine did not misfire at all when driving it for the couple hours we took it out last Saturday. more
Tow Vehicle: 2020 Ford Explorer Platinum 4WD, 3.0L Twin-Turbo Mileage when towing 12 here
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