See full version: Starter runs continuously
To diagnose the problem, first try rotating the lock cylinder. If the starter motor stops, you’ve found the problem. Try lubricating the lock cylinder with a liquid graphite solution or spray dry Teflon lube. NO OTHER LUBE IS allowed. WD-40, spray silicone, or any other type of all-purpose lube will JUST MAKE THE PROBLEM WORSE. Those lubes attract and hold dirt and turn into sludge. That prevents the mechanism from fully releasing back to the RUN position from START.
Let’s see how the system works.
Some Ford owners encounter a situation where the starter run continuously or keeps running even after the engine has started and even after they’ve removed the key from the ignition. At first, this may make you think the starter drive is binding. Or you may think you have a bad starter relay. But in most cases this is caused by binding in the ignition lock cylinder, especially if you’ve lubricated the lock cylinder with any type of lubricant other than graphite or dry Teflon.
Click on the image below and download the PDF.
So, if your starter keep running, the problem could be stuck starter relay contacts, a continuous ground on the starter relay control coil, or a binding ignition lock cylinder that keeps the actually ignition switch in the START position. here
You’ll see that power flows from the battery to the ignition switch. In the start position, power flows to a fuse and then to the transmission range selector (auto trans) or park/neutral switch (manual trans). If the transmission is in either Park or Neutral, power flows to the control coil portion of the starter relay. That’s where the PCM comes into play. It provides the ground to the starter relay control coil. Once grounded the starter relay moves the contacts, allowing power to flow to the starter where the power energizes the pull-in/hold in solenoid that moves the starter drive and connects the starter motor directly to the battery.
Be very interested in comments from Racer and any of the other OMC Wizards on board.
#4. Carb vacuum plates. This is another good one. Chased my tail in circles for wks on a motor that had me stumped. The motor would not pull fuel from two of the carbs no matter what I tried.The carbs have these small plates on the throttle bodies and carbs themselves w/a small rubber gasket under them. They are attached by small phillips screws. Two screws on two plates had backed out maybe a 1/4 turn (not visible) and a I caught this after tearing the damn carbs down for the umpteenth time. A light bulb went off, I tightened the screws ad cured the problem. more
#8 and last for now. Carb idle jets. On these motors they only flow air and no fuel. They can build up crud inside their bore and restrict the passage. This will make your motor run rich and smoke at idle. Found several in the carbs I just rebuilt for the 200hr motors. They weren't totally blocked so the motors still idled pretty decent but once the jest were out you could see the difference w/the naked eye after blowing them out w/compressed air.
Fleetwin – This started happening after I replaced one of the pistons/rods and put everything back together. I had all 4 coil leads grounded via some spark testers. more
I have observed this before in a few motors; what is the cause of this?
It will crank the motor up to 150 PSI then drop down and just spin. Is it simply a situation where the bendix stud needs some oil? This is one of those motors that has a reduction gear working with the starter, too.
I had this problem also with my 1997 90 HP Evinrude E90 ELEUA. Turn the key, It sounds like it fires ,pops the bendix out and the starter spins. I went round and round with it then I remembered. When I bought it Brand new out of the box, I had a similar problem. The Marina replaced the power pack. So when this problem came up again in 2017, I put a new CDI power pack. Problem solved.
The most obvious warning sign that a problem with the starter relay exists is when the vehicle won't start when you engage the ignition process. As stated above, electronic keys do not have a manual ignition switch. However, when powered, it should send a signal to the starter relay once the key is turned or the starter button is pressed. If you press this button or if you turn the key on a manual ignition switch and the vehicle does not turn over, it may be caused by a problem with the starter relay. more
This problem may be attributed to a circuit that has failed, so no matter how many times you turn the key, the vehicle will not start. If the circuit has not yet completely failed, you may hear a clicking noise as you try to turn the key. In either case, you should contact a professional mechanic to inspect the symptom and correctly diagnose the precise cause. more
If the starter relay is working properly, it will send power to the starter every time it is engaged. However, it is possible that the starter relay will become damaged due to excessive heat, dirt, and debris or other issues that might cause sporadic operation of the starter. If you try to start your car and the starter doesn't activate instantly, but you turn the key switch once again and it works, this is most likely due to a problem with the relay. In this case, it's important that you contact a mechanic as soon as possible so they can determine what is causing the intermittent contact. In many cases an intermittent starting problem is linked to a bad wire connection that may become dirty due to exposure under the hood. here
When you start your engine and release the key or stop pressing the starter button on a modern vehicle, the circuit is supposed to close, which will discontinue power to the starter motor. If the starter stays on after the engine has ignited, the main contacts in the starter relay have most likely welded together in the closed position. When this occurs, the starter relay will be stuck in the on position and damage will occur to the starter, circuit, relay, and the transmission flywheel if it is not addressed immediately. here