v-tim
19.06.2021 13:53:41
Following these simple tips – and the advice offered in the owner's manual for your engine – will keep you boating longer now and in the coming spring.
See full version: Dockline Blog
Following these simple tips – and the advice offered in the owner's manual for your engine – will keep you boating longer now and in the coming spring.
REMEMBER: When the air temperature sinks below freezing, always keep the motor in its down position when it's not running. [links]
The holiday season is fast approaching and, while most boaters in your neighborhood have winterized and stored their boat and engine until spring, you still have some late-season fishing and/or hunting on your to-do list. Several sections of the US offer outdoor activities late in the year – and all Mercury Marine outboards are rated to operate at temperatures as low as -15C/+5F. more
However, no matter how invigorating late-season boating can be, you'll need to ensure your outboard and boat are ready to withstand the cold. Before you set the alarm clock for early tomorrow morning, keep these facts and recommendations in mind.
*Also, don't forget to protect yourself with the appropriate cold-weather gear and clothing. ALWAYS wear a lifejacket, and during cold weather consider a float coat and protective bib pants. If you fall into cold water, you have just a few moments to get back on board before your mobility starts to decline. Think about cold-water reboarding as an important part of your preparations.
[links]
I just got my L/U re-sealed in the Spring, so I have to assume I have no water in my L/U, and if I do see some milk shake come out when I change it, I won't be happy, seeing as how it cost about $600 to get it re-sealed.
I get what Chinewalker is saying about the prop shaft cavity when tilted up, but since that's not an enclosed/confined space then it would seem any freezing water would have room to expand and not crack anything.
Wouldn't there have to be a lot of water in the L/U and also wouldn't it have to be separated out from the oil, in order to freeze up enough to crack a L/U case?? And if you have that much water in the L/U, you have a big problem.
pertaining to jet ski`s, jet boats:
I`ve had very edgy performance 2 strokes, 130hp 951cc, 175HP 1300cc and 110hp 787cc that were sensitive to the colder denser air and colder waters, both having raw water cooling and no T stats.
I understand the need to fully warm them up before leaving the dock.
I`ve been on the water right next to machines that the operator after a warm up went to wot and squeeked the engine. rapid thermal expansion regardless of forged or cast piston and whoopsie. personally I`ve faired well with OEM and PROx pistons, others had failures with other brands.
The 4 stroke machines were easy, close loop cooling and regulated.
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