See full version: Outboard flywheel wont turn after pulling off
The physical scale of the carburetor I can handle. Contemplating removing the flywheel (which does require specialized tools) and then breaking down the power head is overwhelming to me. As someone noted I served in Korea. I was an officer on a destroyer for 3 and 1/2 years. If you do the math I'm no kid (86).This is better than doing crosswords to keep mentally alert.
This little motor was barely used on a dinghy and was just left without being serviced for storage (Another sin against Navy doctrine-not my fault though), and now I want to use it on a small Zodiac. Took it to the dealer and his first estimate was $500 and up from there. Motor isn't worth that much so I thought it would be a decent tinkering project. Worked my way through the carburetor with the help of the manuals, which was a little frustrating. As to the question about the color of the ATF after soaking. No, it was not rusty. I think it was just a matter of time to get some penetrating agent into the area that was bound up. [links]
If you already have the plug out, try some gentle blows on the flywheel - maybe it will loosen up sticking piston rings.
best to take it apart and see what all is a problem
motor that will not move can be a major problem.
crankshaft, bearings, along with cylinders, piston rings all can rust and be destroyed.
sounds like your motor went underwater or was not stored properly for a long period of time
At present I have a Maritime skiff with a 90 horse 4 cycle Yamaha motor which is maintained by the local dealer who is btw excellent. After this experience I appreciate how well he does to service the big engine every boating season [links]
My ole man is having the same thing Happen to him He pulls and pulls and pulls Messing with the flywheel a little then it let's him pull a tiny bit then somewhat and freezes again please please someone help how can we get it to start… . Anyone b [links]
Hi, so I started a DIY mini ATV project with a 49cc pocket bike engine about a year ago. I started it once, then it sat in my garage for a while. The other day, I tried to start it again. When I tried to start it, the pull rope came out a bit then got stuck. I tried to pull harder, but it wouldn’t move. I took the pull start assembly off, and it pulled fine. The starter flywheel turned when I used a tool to push it. But as soon as I put the pull start assembly back on, it wouldn’t pull. Does anyone know what is wrong and how I could fix it?
I had a new CT-200 Coleman shipped to my home. Assembled, said it didn’t come with oil but, it did have oil in it. Topped off oil, added fuel, turned on gas, choked it & its locked up! here
P.S I am only 13, so if the fix is obvious don’t judge. I don’t know much about this stuff. here
I have a coleman ct200u I never had something such a nightmare starting. If your lucky you might get a good pull right away if not I have to pull easy 2 times because its locked 3rd time I usually get a pull. Then if your lucky and it starts prey it didn't foul the plug again. I have a 212cc gokart its so smooth starting 1st pull
What is a flywheel on a car? Technically explained , the flywheel (if manual) or flex plate (if automatic transmission) is defined as a disc that is bolted to the crankshaft at the rear of the engine. It serves many purposes:
Clutch drag isn’t a failure of the flywheel itself actually. It is the bearing or bushing in the flywheel or crankshaft assembly.
Instead of smoothly engaging, the clutch “skips” along the flywheel. The clutch repeatedly grabs and releases which feels like a stutter or vibration when the clutch is released. While it can happen in any gear, it’s most popular when starting from a complete stop. While a warped flywheel is sometimes the cause, clutch chatter can be difficult to diagnose as pressure plate, the clutch disc, or release bearing are often at fault whether the parts are worn, broken, warped, or contaminated by oil due to an engine or transmission leak.
I have an unusual problem. Occasionally, the engine on my mower locks up and the starter is not able to crank it. I have to rotate the flywheel back and forth to free it up at which point the starter will engage and start the engine. It doesn't happen often but when it does, the starter won't budge the engine.
I'll check the valve adjustment and see if they're out. Is there a procedure somewhere with tolerance specifications for doing this?
I've checked the electrical connections already. That's one reason I changed the starter solenoid. But the starter is original but it appears to be OK. When the engine cranks, it's at a fast speed, i.e., the starter doesn't appear to be dragging.