See full version: Leaking Exhaust Gasket
Are you retorqueing the bolts after warming the engine.They always loosen up for me.Long bolts,many gaskets and covers.<br /><br />While you cannot get a torque wrench at all the bolts,you can get a feel for tightness with a regular box wrench.<br /><br />Also Permatex type 2 is a little (lot) thicker and helps with some warpage.<br /><br />DHP [links]
When you have the exh cover off, check to make sure there is no porosity (small casting holes) in the actual inner casting. At planing speeds, the engine water pressure can also cause leaks like you mention.
Thanks, I have a manual and torqued all according to the book. I did not see and perhaps overlooked what I'm asking, but to what pressure should I torque the exhaust bolts? Really seems to be the problem. [links]
Re: Leaking Exhaust Gasket more
Re: Leaking Exhaust Gasket
Once thing for sure Tech Man, make sure the surfaces are CLEAN. I find it helps to torque all the fastening bolts. This ensures an even pressure all around the cover.<br /><br />The leak on the outside gasket should not effect compression. What it's probably doing is spraying over onto the spark plugs causing them to more or less short out and giving you a miss.<br /><br />I've never change one with the block still attached to the midsection but I would guess the bottom fastening bolts will be a little hard to get to. Also check the gasket surfaces are flat and don't have any warpage. You can do this with a known straight edge.
If water was visible from below the sprinkler body, the leak may be at the riser or fitting. Use the shovel to dig down to the fitting, and then turn on the water. See if any leaks appear at the fitting. If so, you will need to replace it. [links]
In the event that the water leaks where the riser connects to the fitting, you'll want to remove the riser. Inspect the threads on both ends for any damage. Go ahead and reattach it if the threads check out, and turn the water back on. If the leak persists, you can wrap Teflon tape around the threads two or three times before you test again.
Now inspect the sprinkler head you removed. See if any debris is lodged inside the spray area of the head. Also look at the threads on the bottom of the sprinkler housing for any damage. If there is debris or damage present, the sprinkler head will need to be replaced. If not, continue your inspection. [links]
If water is leaking out of the head of the sprinkler, it may be loose, clogged, or damaged. It will be easier to check the head for issues if you remove it, so use the shovel to dig it up. Most sprinkler heads are removed by twisting a cap off the top of the sprinkler body or housing. The cap typically holds the shaft that pops up when water pressure is added. This cap also keeps water from leaking out of the body. Inspect the seal at the bottom, and then push up on the shaft to expose the sprinkler head itself. more
The first step to fixing the leak is determining where it is. To do this, turn on the sprinkler, and pay attention to where the water is coming out. Leaks at different areas can be attributed to different causes. Check to see if the water is leaking where it sprays out the head or if it is above or below the head itself. Water can also escape out of the sprinkler housing or from the ground below.
Typically head gaskets fail when the head and the engine expend at different rates, and the gasket can't seal the newly expanded gap. This issue is made worse on some motors which use an iron cylinder block and an aluminum head. Moreover, some engines are just designed with poor clamping force from the head bolts, or have heads prone to warping, and a reputation for failure.
Either of these types of gasket failure will also allow combustion pressure into the cooling system or oil breather system. If a radiator hose suddenly blows off its water outlet, or the dipstick won't stay put, this could be the reason. here
However, these will not show if there are any other failure spots in with the head gasket, so the absence of gasses in the cooling system does not guarantee a healthy head gasket.
NOTE: An internal coolant leak doesn’t always mean the head gasket is leaking. Because, hairline cracks in the cylinder head or engine block, can also cause leaks. more
Consequently, the bubbles are exhaust gases; that force their way into the cooling system, during the combustion process.
So, usually one of these symptoms by itself; is not enough to prove you have, cylinder head gasket leaks. But, having multiple symptoms at the same time; increases your chances dramatically. That’s why, knowing the signs can steer you in the right direction.
Furthermore, antifreeze in the crankcase, can also dilute and contaminate the engine oil. So, with little to no lubrication the first thing to wear out, are the engine bearings. Along with this, you could hear, lifter ticking noise.