r!chb
30.04.2021 17:12:40
Make sure the remote control lever is in the neutral position,
then drop the lower an inch or so -
just enough to get the shift rod ends mated -
then button it back up.
See full version: Outboard motor not going into gear
Make sure the remote control lever is in the neutral position,
then drop the lower an inch or so -
just enough to get the shift rod ends mated -
then button it back up.
On the bolts, I use some sailboat technology. I use a product called Tef-Gel and we use that when installing ss bolts and fasteners into aluminum threaded, like on the mast. I hate trying to extract broken fasteners, especially the neglected aluminum to ss bolts that have been exposed to sea water for years. [links]
I believe that the whole water pump annually is more about removing the bolts and lubricating the driveshaft so everything does not get stuck from being installed for several years.
Many times, I simply clean the bolts and reinstall with a freshly greased drive shaft spline.
Hint, while I lubricate that shift shaft spline with a quality marine grease, take care to not put too much (do not pack the coupling joint with grease) as it may apply pressure and make it hard to shift. (the excess thick grease does not squeeze out of the shift shaft joint and applies pressure to the linkage) [links]
You are a lucky man, to have re-installed the LU multiple times
without ever having to struggle to get the shift rod ends to line up.
Some outboards give the boat a healthy jolt when you shift them into and out of gear. You know the clunk I’m talking about – it’s not enough to rattle your fillings, but it is significant enough to make you wonder if anything’s wrong with the motor. Well don’t worry, that’s just how a lot of outboards are. Many new ones utilize shift-interrupt systems, which solve the problem magnificently. As you move the shifter the motor’s brain tells the spark plugs to hesitate a fraction of a second and let the gears mesh without any force behind them. I have a pair of 2009 Suzuki 90’s on the back of my 22 Glacier Bay, and these motors don’t clunk in the slightest. In fact, were it not for the forward motion of the boat you’d never even know you went from neutral into gear. Of course, there are a gazillian and one outboards out there which won’t be replaced any time soon, and up until last week, you’d just have to live with them and their clukiness. No more. Yamaha has just introduced a new line of SWS II propellers, tagged the “SDS” because they have a shift dampening system built into the hub, which absorbs the energy that creates the clunk. 13”, 15”, 17”,19”, 21”, and 23” props in both left and right hand rotations are available, and if you have one of the many SWS prop-equipped outboards that clunks, you might want to check it out. I tested the SDS on a 24′ Scout running a single F250. When I shifted both into forward and reverse I could feel a clunk reduction I’d put at about 50-percent. Yes, some of the old clunkiness is still there. But it is a pretty significant reduction. If you’re sick of feeling the gears smack in and out and you aren’t ready to upgrade to a new shift-interrupt outboard, this is the next best thing. The SDS prop - not perfect, but a big reduction in shift clunk.
Many new ones utilize shift-interrupt systems, which solve the problem magnificently. As you move the shifter the motor’s brain tells the spark plugs to hesitate a fraction of a second and let the gears mesh without any force behind them. I have a pair of 2009 Suzuki 90’s on the back of my 22 Glacier Bay, and these motors don’t clunk in the slightest. In fact, were it not for the forward motion of the boat you’d never even know you went from neutral into gear. Of course, there are a gazillian and one outboards out there which won’t be replaced any time soon, and up until last week, you’d just have to live with them and their clukiness. No more. Yamaha has just introduced a new line of SWS II propellers, tagged the “SDS” because they have a shift dampening system built into the hub, which absorbs the energy that creates the clunk. 13”, 15”, 17”,19”, 21”, and 23” props in both left and right hand rotations are available, and if you have one of the many SWS prop-equipped outboards that clunks, you might want to check it out. [links]
Some outboards give the boat a healthy jolt when you shift them into and out of gear. You know the clunk I’m talking about – it’s not enough to rattle your fillings, but it is significant enough to make you wonder if anything’s wrong with the motor. Well don’t worry, that’s just how a lot of outboards are. [links]
The first thing we need to do is get familiar with the lower unit and gearbox assemblies detailed in the figures below. The potential problem areas have been circled here
If you just resealed your 9.5 Hp outboard lower unit and then reinstalled it only to find out your lower unit isn’t shifting into gear don’t worry, its probably a simple fix since it could only be caused by a few components. The following describes the potential problem areas from the top of the motor down to the skeg. more
As an Amazon Associate and member of the eBay Partner Network I earn commissions from qualifying purchases using the links below at no additional cost to you.
[links]
So this leads me to one of two possible reasons to what triggers the alarm; here
In addition; when unplugging and connecting the lever connectors again (port to port, starboard to starboard) i got the alarm and the display message to disapear, but as soon as i touched (or just nudged it to be precise) the whole alarm show was at it again. and when i say nudge, i mean it litteraly! Not setting it into gear or nothin. hardly touching the port side lever. more
Any insights to share? I guess the "swap" of alarm from one gauge to another indiccates its something to do with the lever (guess no signal goes directly from lever to guage), and the motor then "responds" to the fault and then sounding the alarm..
Started out by changing port and starboard connectors behind the levers. - Then port side wouldnt fire up at all (maybe due to not beeing synced in the gauges as motor 2?!), but starboard fired up as normal. AND - this is where it gets tricky - the Alarm (flashing and displaying messages) had now changed from port to starboard gauge. to me this indicates there is at the levers/control something is wrong. here
hardware fault in the lever itself du to a faulty sensor or whatnot in the all-electrical precision control unit. [links]