Before and after sanding the bare hull I washed it down with Pettit wax remover.
See full version: Concerns with EasyPoxy from Pettit. Please read
Before and after sanding the bare hull I washed it down with Pettit wax remover.
Here is what I did. I used two part 2000E Interlux Interprotect epoxy sealer/ primer on top of my well sanded hull. Three coats plus sanding in between each coat.
I guess I rolled on a good enough coat that foam rollers could put it on. Not really thick at all. I did roll and tip. here
Re: Concerns with EasyPoxy from Pettit. Please read. more
I was assured by Pettit in an email that if left to cure for 7 days before putting it on the trailer and if the boat will not be in the water for more than 2 days, its good for bottom paint.
Then I followed with three coats of EasyPoxy.
Area is required. Area must be a non negative nemuric value(up to 1 decimal place).
Select coating type, enter length and beam demensions, then click Calculate.
Beam of boat is required. Beam of boat must be a non negative numeric value(up to 1 decimal place).
here
Length of boat is required. Length of boat must be a non negative numeric value(up to 1 decimal place).
Beam of Boat more
Select coating type, enter square footage, then click Calculate.
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Smooth Sailing sells environmentally friendly, low drag Teflon, boat bottom coatings. No biocides leach out of your bottom paint because we use the "non-stick" technology of Teflon and the time tested magic of copper to keep growths away. So you can take advantage of the very hard wear-resistant qualities of a Teflon
and urethane bottom to keep growths away. This Teflon urethane has been tested by the US Navy and been shown to last up to a decade. It is available in white, charcoal gray, yellow, or navy blue.
A low drag coefficient means:
Power versus Drag
Power and drag are the two elements at play to determine boat speed on the water. If you have unlimited power then drag is not such a problem. The amount of drag your hulls are producing will dramatically affect how fast you slow down and long it takes to accelerate back up to speed. If you are racing a sailboat, your power is limited to the lift that the combination of wind and sail shape can provide. In addition during starts, rounding marks, tacking and jibbing increases drag and taxes power. This is why in the 1700�s the British Navy retrofitted all of its war ships with copper sheathing. The copper reduced buildup of
growths on ship hulls, decreasing drag and making a life and death difference.
CHOOSE A BOTTOM PAINT
Getting the right paint isn’t always as easy as it sounds, because there’s a wide range of antifouling paints on the market and some are better than others for specific a climate or region. We were prepping a boat for a summer in the brackish waters of Chesapeake Bay, which is home to a number of fouling organisms. But we also needed a paint that could withstand occasional trailering, and that could be applied well in advance of launching (some paints require the boat to be launched in a specific time frame after application). Petit (pettitpaint.com) Hydrocoat Ablative Antifouling Paint (1) was ideal for our needs. Before choosing a paint for yourself, however, do some homework and figure out which is best for your personal needs.
PREP & SAND
Like with any paint job, preparation is key. If the boat’s bottom hasn’t been painted before, there’s typically an extra step required to prep the surface. In the case of Hydrocoat, we had to first treat the bottom with 92 Bio-Blue Hull Surface Prep, but the exact process can differ by paint product, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Always wear a dust mask when sanding.
• Lay out a drop-cloth to catch any loose flakes and bits of old bottom paint, and dispose of them properly.