See full version: Tag: Porta Bote Problem
Once safely back to harbour, I started hunting for a solution. Using spring washers wouldn’t help, as those things require quite abit of pressure to lock the thumb screws in place. Further more, over tightening the thumbscrews would squeeze the two black bracket arms together, possibly deforming them weakening them over time.
If the original center support on that second seat is 1 inch off the hull, and here
Then, we put the 9.9 hp Mercury on it; with our same load, the boat quickly accelerated to over 17 mph, but was starting to deform above that speed, with the left gunnel bending way out. The boat still seemed to handle ok, and was undoubtedly still safe, but my bride was uneasy watching the deformation, so we didn’t try to go faster. [links]
B- When closing boat, walk on the hull if a side gets “stuck”. You won’t damage it. more
8- – Install the remaining seat(s) just as before. Make sure all seat supports are in place. Side supports will be a little loose on bottom. This is normal. In the water they will tighten.
7- READ CAREFULLY: If an accident occurs and your boat should fill with water, immediately shut off the outboard. Evacuate and hang on to the boat It will remain afloat. Never go out in any boat unless each occupant is wearing a Coast Guard approved life vest and you have plenty of line (rope). If you are already in the water and wish to board, Do so from the rear side of your boat. It is the widest part and the boat will not capsize. Do not try to climb back in from the transom.
9- Slide transom down in front of bladder as shown. You may have to push one of the sides of the hull out a little bit. There are 2 predrilled holes on each side of hull. Line up top hole of side of transom with top hole on the side of hull.
Cylinder base corrosion indicates an electrical system problem with electrical current finding its way through the trim pump, then finding ground through the hydraulic fluid to the cylinder base. The submerged aluminum then acts as an anode. [links]
REMEDY:
Make sure all electrical components on the vessel are securely grounded to the negative terminal on the battery. It may be necessary to create a ground contact from the negative terminal directly into the water with an electrolysis-preventing system – i.e., a bonded zinc plate on the transom, or equivalent.
IMPORTANT: Do not operate Porta Bracket or remove aluminum spacer brackets until Porta Bracket is installed on boat. Installation of the Porta Bracket without spacer brackets in the factory setting will result in loss of operating travel and may cause damage to the bracket and or the boat.
PROBLEM:
Corrosion of the submerged cylinder base and or submerged hydraulic fittings with no other similar corrosion on other submerged bracket components. [links]
** On some motor installations there are areas where parts of the outboard or steering components may interfere with the Porta Bracket travel. Before using outboard motor trim or Porta Bracket, have someone at the helm operate all hydraulic systems slowly to their extremes while another watches the Porta Bracket, motor trim, and steering system for obstructions. Areas to watch closely are: [links]
REASON:
Due to the UHMW (Plastic) bearing surfaces, the components of the Porta Bracket are not electrically connected or conductive. [links]
I will put one my fixes below in hopes that we can kick this forum off well, maybe even stoke some solutions to my current problem. I have others fixes just not that much time right now. So please feel free to tell us about them. Please include the story if it isn?t too embarrassing. here
Problem:
On one trip I was heading to Chevelon Canyon Lake in Eastern Arizona. The lake is very secluded and is one of only a few places in Arizona that has stay over trout. I got a late start up the mountain from my house in Phoenix and didn?t have time to check everything. Long story short, the boat came off just before I got to Payson. It went over the guardrail and off a very rocky cliff. Luckily it made a noise, or else I don?t know how I would have known where it came off the truck. It was dark and I probably would have not searched for it if i didn't know exactly where it came off. I went back the next day and found the boat. I had to go a long ways out of the way to even get down to it. I dragged it across many rocks, the whole time asking myself whether it was worth it or not. While getting it out the boat managed to get a huge rip/gash through the hull of the boat. The rip was about 1.5-2 foot long on the starboard side of the hull. The rip probably occurred from me dragging it across sharp rocks and losing traction and falling on the boat instead of the rocks. more
I wanted to start a forum on just repairs of porta-botes. I don't really care about crazy mods, although some are very cool, I only care about extending the longevity of my current boat (or bote if you want it to sound fancy). See Joe Dirt/Dirte. I have long been a porta-bote user, about 18 years. Not always a supporter though. However they are great for what they are. a fold able, easily transported boat that is very sturdy and reliable. In my opinion, not reliable enough to take it into the ocean 22 miles out but, maybe someday. here
Problem:
I am currently having problems with the black padding shredding away due to it being old. It leaves black dots all over the place and seems to be getting worse every trip. Has anyone been able find or tried a solution to this? I was thinking maybe some shoe goo maybe even a thin layer of silicone. Maybe even replacing it?
I will start by saying that I am a construction worker (of sorts) and have access to databases of chemicals that readily accessible from your local home improvement store. Also I have access to people?s minds that are far smarter than I. These people have created solutions I could not have conjured up even on the best of drugs. I have done many things with the boat including portaging multiple miles with it, using as dingy for sailboat, temporary bathing, even used as shelter on one terribly bad night. Warning: the fixes detailed in this forum are not guaranteed to work and should be used at your own personal and porta-bote risk. more
Solution:
I was able to find a product that is made by 3M, recommended to me by a Scientist co-worker. It is called Scotch-Weld DP 8010. I found it at Grainger or maybe Border. Both of these places are construction/Industrial supply houses. It was very expensive. It was 45 dollars for a tube and 18 for the special 10:1 mix ratio plunger that is required to expel the epoxy. It took two tubes and one plunger to do the job to my liking. I did not buy the gun and the special mixing nozzle because this would have been another 130 dollars. I just forced the plunger down which was very difficult and mixed the epoxy on a piece of wood. It is an Acrylic Structural Plastic Adhesive/epoxy. Translation: this stuff can be pretty nasty. The first thing stated on the bottle is ?for industrial or professional use only?. Be sure to use proper precautions and read the side of the bottle before use. Also read bold warning words above. The stuff had about a 5 minute working time before it started to set up. I treated the crack inside and out and have had no problems what so ever with the repair. 100% water tight.