mskwik
19.05.2021 12:04:24
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Jeff Smith: The quick answer to your question is that the camshaft you selected is, in fact a hydraulic camshaft so don’t tear it out just yet. What you are hearing is the effect of more aggressive techniques to deliver more performance from either a hydraulic flat or hydraulic roller cam. A stock camshaft lobe profile adds more duration between initial lifter movement and the 0.050-inch tappet lift numbers in order to keep the lifters quiet.
I just installed a new cam in my small block Chevy. The engine runs great, but I’ve noticed that at idle and at some cruising speeds the engine makes a noise that sounds more like a mechanical lifter camshaft. I bought a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft but this one sounds more like a solid lifter engine. Did somebody sell me the wrong cam? D.C.
All hydraulic lifter engines are designed to accommodate the growth that occurs as the engine warms up. With mechanical cams, this is accomplished with lash or clearance. Hydraulic lifters use what is called lifter preload, which compresses the small piston inside the lifter a given distance. This preload compensates for growth so no lash is necessary. Stock factory preload specs are generally ¾ to 1 full turn of preload, which moves the small piston in the lifter roughly 0.050-inch. Some performance camshaft manufacturers specify far less preload of more like ¼ to ½ turn with the lifter on the base circle of the lobe which reduces the preload down to perhaps only 0.015- to 0.020-inch..
The simplest way to set preload is to use what I call the EO-IC method – or Exhaust Opening Intake Closing. I like to start with the Number One cylinder and run down each bank. I start by bumping the engine over until the exhaust valve just opens (EO). This puts the intake lifter on the base circle of the lobe so we can set the intake preload. With the intake preload set, now bump the engine until the intake valve is halfway closed (IC). Now you can set the preload on the exhaust. With the first cylinder finished, you can move to the adjacent cylinder and run through the process again. [links]
The first de-coked the heads and replaced the former adjustable pushrods (a couple of which were split) with standard pushrods, and setup the rockers with shims. Whilst the heads were off they check the bores and pronounced them fine. The compression problem remains, but may have moved about the cylinders a bit. here
The second reckons that without adjustable pushrods or adjustable rockers the pre-load cannot be properly set on all the valves. They say this is due to the inevitable uneven wear of the varous parts involved. So when new, all the valve stem lengths etc would have been fine with the crude adjustment available from shimming the rocker posts, but now the engine has had some wear, shimming cannot get all the clearances and setting close enough. [links]
Cheers Matt - you mean the old 240 saloon car box thing? more
I read here http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a. and I have been told elsewhere by an engine builder with some experience of Rover V8, that adjustable rockers from Volvo can be used in the Rover V8. Can anyone provide more details on this please? Which model Volvo do they come from? Is the complete Volvo rocker gear used, or are just the rockers put on the Rover rocker shaft or what? Are the Volvo pushrods used, or something else?
Two reputable places have examined the engine for the source of the current low compression without completely striping it down, and reckon the block, cylinders and bores are fine and not causing compression loss. They both reckon the loss is through the valves. here
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