Akilae
22.06.2021 10:29:22
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Cheers, has anyone got any fresh ideas, much appreciated.
This morning I used a length of 2''x4'' and a 10 lb sledge until the alloy is starting to crack on the side of the cavitation plate and it has not moved a millimeter after 20 odd firm hits. Thanks. [links]
Re: gearcase removal,Evinrude 70 hp. [links]
Re: gearcase removal,Evinrude 70 hp.
Yep thats how one would act if the driveshaft was stuck in the crank. Just give it some time, and try not to break it up anymore. And please no references to hot and humid, cause it's -6 degrees C here and the wind is blowing, can't work on anything outside without sticking to it. Hope you have some success soon, I'm out of ideas.
Gday,
Brian [links]
Did you get the hidden bolt under the the little skeg looking thing?
Thanks again Jim! I do tend to ramble and spray random questions though out. Makes it kind of messy. Sorry!
Three of the four broken off bolts came out with heat and Vice Grip. The fourth broke off flush with heat and VG. Wife is out looking for some reverse twist drill bits, which seem to be recommended by many in other threads.. I do not want to remove broken eze out. Failed before at that. I will go see if I have a heli coil or two. Seems like I bought some a few years ago. Looking at the forum threads this seems to be a pretty common problem especially on salt outboards. Still doing Research today. I should have done a little more of that before I started this project.
If I could get the mid section off, I would try to find a machine shop to do this. Tomorrow I will concentrate on get the mid section out instead of drilling. Seems like the two bolts that point inward toward the drive shaft (one on each side) would release the mid section along with the three on top that capture the rubber yoke thing on top of the transom swivel (which I already took out). Those two side bolts seem awful tight. I didn't heat that area yet as I can see there is a rubber mount in there.
Re: 55hp 1977 Evinrude stuck gear case
For future reference. when removing tight bolts, use a hand help propane torch to heat the aluminum surrounding the bolts. This will force the aluminum to expand somewhat which will help free the bolts.
Still stuck gear case after quite a bit of work yesterday. I have the power head read to come off now also, but only about 1/4 inch separation between ph and exhaust housing. I only twisted off two more small screws one of which was on the exhaust relief port, which I probably didn't need to take off.
Is this a fresh or salt water engine??
First, shift the engine into forward gear…
There is no roll pin on top of this driveshaft, it does not have the same lower crankcase seal set up as older engines
The gearcase should pull down now, there is no shift rod connector like typical OMC models.
The water tube may be stuck in the rubber impeller housing grommet, which will require a little more effort to pull apart
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a place to “pry the gearcase down and off” due to the plastic seal housing on top of the gearcase, so you will need to be careful when prying downwards with a screwdriver.
Finally, if this is a salt water engine, the driveshaft/crankshaft splines may be rusted/seized together holding the driveshaft and crankshaft together. So, you will have to decide how far you want to go with this project, you may want to leave it alone. If you pry hard enough, you will pop the driveshaft out of the gearcase, and the gearcase will pull down leaving the driveshaft stuck up inside the crankshaft. Once this has happened there is no way to reassemble the unit without pulling the powerhead off and getting the driveshaft out of there somehow. Please know that new/used driveshafts for this engine are tough to find in good condition, nice ones will cost plenty.
Am hoping this is a fresh water engine, and the water tube is just stuck in the impeller housing.
Starting and stopping the engine probably won’t help, but it might soften the grommet a bit, I guess it’s worth a try….Be sure to put the bolts back in first and run it in a test tank with the water level over the gearcase/exhaust housing joint…
Once it is warmed up, try again immediately.
It only comes down 1/8″…
You don’t want to twist it too much, that will only bend the water tube up, but you really cant twist it much with that plastic upper cover in the way anyway.
It is hard to advise without seeing or being there. You may want to try prying just a little bit with a big screwdriver on either end of the gearcase. The gearcase won’t “give” at all if the driveshaft splines are seized. But, if the gearcase seems to come down a bit, then springs back up when pressure is release, this would indicate that it is just the grommet holding the water tube in place.
Again, you don’t want to pry very hard…There is no way to remove and straighten the water tube without pulling the powerhead… And, as I mentioned before, if the driveshaft is seized, prying down too hard will pop the driveshaft out of the impeller housing. This will require powerhead removal also, getting seized driveshaft/crank situations apart is a gamble at best.
I am only “slightly encouraging” you to pry a bit based on your description of a low hour/fresh water engine, which makes a seized driveshaft splines must less likely…
Again, post some good pictures so we can see the engine and what is going on….D here
David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter
Are you sure you have all the bolts out?
but i have heard of prying /wedging between the "anti-ventilation plate" and the similar projection above it
I'm thinking of using plastic wedges, such as a tree felling wedge. Maybe some other, smaller ones - I'll see what I can dig up or find over the winter. Is there anything you guys have found that work for you? Any tricks you have found, over the years? It's relatively straight forward and I'm not anticipating any "magic cure all" ideas - but just in case there's some other methods, I'm all ears! here