FrY10cK
11.06.2021 19:40:43
Re: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed. [links]
See full version: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed
Re: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed. [links]
Re: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed. more
Re: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed.
And it looks like at the intersection the lower hull is a solid piece of fiberglass. It doesn't look like water could get inside the hull. here
The "rub rail" is the joint between the top half of your boat and the bottom half.
Removing the rub rail is no big deal. Typically, the rub rail is riveted on. Just drill them out and replace with Stainless screws.. more
I found a leak under the aluminum rub rail between the deck and hull. I don't want to remove the rail and the leak is out of reach inside the hull via the rear inspection port. I'm thinking of just putting sealant as far under the rub rail as possible, extending to the pop rivets on either side of the leak point.
Any advice will be appreciated.
I found a leak under the aluminum rub rail between the deck and hull. Any advice will be appreciated. here
Geeze - don't you people ever learn? The way to go fast is SAIL IT FLAT. here
Smearing sealant around the leaking area and the alum. rub strip may work but the split/leaking area at the joint of the deck and hull will probably just get worse over time. Remove the section of alum. rub strip by carefully drilling out the pop rivets with a drill bit a little larger than the dimeter of the rivet, find the leak and spread it a little with a screw driver or two, mix up some thickened epoxy resin, apply the thickened resin liberally to the leaking area, clamp the area (spring clamps work well but small "C" clamps will also suffice), wipe off the run-out with a rag and a little acetone, let the resin cure, sand or file the edge smooth and re-attach the rub rail. As complicated as this may sound, it is propably less than an hour's work all told. You will end up with a true repair rather than a temporary patch. You may also find other leak under other parts of the rub strip that you didn't know about which you can also repair at the same time.
If you sail flat the water will never get near the crappy piece of aluminum trim that either Al or Cort thought would serve some useful purpose like actually stopping leaks or maybe it was just to make the product look glitzy in the 1950s after all these were the days of fin tail cars or maybe somebody's brother-in-law had just bought a load of aluminum strip and needed to unload it but in any case the aforementioned piece of aluminum strip just serves to make the boat look cheap and oocasionally if it comes loose to tear your shorts and expose bare flesh to the other sailors that will cause them to choke and let you cross them on port unless you are a hottie female in which case those dirty old guys Al and Cort are probably grinning in their graves but never mind 'cos if you don't sail it flat the boat will fill up with water and then the weight of the water will keep the boat upright but when you try and haul the boat up the beach you will break your dollie and then the guys at Vanguard will be happy 'cos you will have to buy some new bits and maybe you will even see sense and realise that Sunfish with aluminum trim were made in the last millenium forgodsake so don't be cheap go out and buy a new 'fish and help the US economy so the Republicans will get re-elected and keep America safe for guns and gaybashing and jesus freaks.
Ok, now for the damage itself. Once the shower was pushed forward and to port side, I could squeeze in and get a first look at the damage. As you can see the plywood bulkhead is not only broken away from the hull, it was also crushed in by almost 2 inches. I'm not quite sure what happened that night, but the boat had survived a few storms before then without much drama. Something major must have changed but we'll never know for sure. more
Gutting the interior. (I hope you skipped lunch, we're not done yet)
One interesting detail that I'll point out is just how thick the layup is on top of the stringer. The minimum thickness is 1/4" and it looks like roving, not mat. The coring still seems solid, but it's nice to know the glass reinforcing is probably enough by itself. [links]
Note that part of the plywood that was crushed had to be amputated. The remaining void was filled with fiberglass to restore the original thickness. A mat/roving combo flap was then added to both sides to complete the repair. [links]
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property.
Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store. [links]
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]