nephia
19.06.2021 2:44:59
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If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
Cloudflare Ray ID: 6873e28fdbb11699 • Your IP : 46.32.66.208 • Performance & security by Cloudflare more
If the optical disc has scratches, specifically on the black sections, these can often be filled with a permanent marker or other darkening agent to restore functionality. Check this first, ensuring the disc rotates at least one full turn for thorough examination.
After disconnecting the leads to the top cap, the optical disc and sensor can be cleaned with a cloth or cotton swab lightly dampened with alcohol. Avoid dripping moisture into the unit to avert any possible damage.
In some cases, the optical disc or sensor may be cleaned with canned air without removing any parts. However, most situations will call for removal of the plastic top cap to clean the sensor. This is located at the top of the mounting arm where the drivetrain and flywheel are attached. You'll typically need a common Allen/hex wrench to unscrew each screw on the side of the mounting arm, as shown here. here
With extended use, the KICKR may eventually collect dirt, grease, or dust on the "checkered" optical disc or sensor which reads it.
This is how I remove flywheels. I may get jumped for doing it this way, but I have removed many, many, (probably into the hundreds) and I have never had a problem with a FW or crank. I have a cousin who owns a mower and saw shop and he showed me this a couple of years ago. He said he has been shown this way at many training schools. He is in his early 80's, still sharp as a tack, and works his shop every day.
1) back the FW nut off until the crank stub is just below the top of the nut (one turn or so below flush).
2) grip the fin as shown over the magnets or the counter balance using just the outer end and avoiding putting pressure across the curved surface of the fin.
3) hold the saw up of the bench and give the nut a sharp whack with a hammer. Repeat if it doesn't pop off the first two or three times, making sure the nut doesn't turn and the stub stays below the nut. If it doesn't come loose, rotate the FW 180° and repeat.
There are three points in doing it this way- here
I have only been defeated a couple of times using this method. Then it's time to break out the heat gun and PB Blaster!!
Last week it started to make a few slight noises that I didn’t like the sound of and a vibration could be detected through the pedals. The noise was a slight click and a rubbing/squeal from the belt drive. The squeal was noticeable when the flywheel was coming to a stop.
Old bolts and deformed washers more
I have had Wahoo turbo trainers for the last few years. The first being the Kickr Snap which worked well but its resistance would fluctuate quite a bit depending on tyre pressure and air temperature.
Before you ride the kickr!! more
The two common mechanical problems are knocking and a drone sound whilst using the turbo.
Edit, I've heard that Wahoo are replacing the Woodruff key for one that is a tighter fit. I'll look into this and report back
This is my turbo now after belt tension has been reduced. The noise is still there but much reduced .
View: https://youtu.be/ETxvT9pG7SU [links]