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02.06.2021 16:09:55
Push the seals onto the shaft and slide them into place. Replace the O-ring and push the carrier back into place. You may need to use the slide hammer to ensure that the carrier is firmly seated. [links]
See full version: How to Replace the Prop Seals on a Mercury Outboard
Push the seals onto the shaft and slide them into place. Replace the O-ring and push the carrier back into place. You may need to use the slide hammer to ensure that the carrier is firmly seated. [links]
Remove the prop from the engine by bending the retaining tabs that hold the prop nut. Then use a wrench to remove the propeller from the shaft pulling straight out.
If you see a small, thin streak of milky-colored oil coming from the bottom of the lower unit of the motor, you must replace the prop shaft seals. Changing the seals on the prop shaft of Mercruiser engine is a project for winter or the off-season. Replacing the seals themselves is a straightforward job, but before you can replace them, you have to run an obstacle course through your motor's lower unit.
Use a hammer and punch to remove the carrier nut. The carrier nut is a large ring with slots cut into it and held in place by a tab. Bend the tab back. Set the punch against the end of one of the slots in the carrier nut and tap the nut with the hammer until it comes loose.
Lubricate the prop shaft and the splines on the prop shaft. Slide the propeller straight on to the shaft. Screw the propeller nut into place and bend the tabs over the propeller nut
“Even with a modern engine and oil, it’s critical not to over-shoot that initial oil change,” said David Meeler, Yamaha marine product information manager. “Think of it as the first pit stop of a long race. For Yamaha outboards that’s at 20 hours, and draining that oil will get any possible debris out of the engine. The dealer tech will also change the gearcase lube and check the magnetic tip of the plug for debris larger than just powder. Then if there’s an issue, it can be dealt with immediately.”
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Marine engine manufacturers offer a choice of mineral-based and synthetic-blend or full synthetic oils. Again, you want to first follow the guidelines of the owner’s manual regarding oil specification. There have been a few engines, such as the first-generation Mercury Verado outboards, that required a specific synthetic-blend oil. In most cases, however, mineral-based oil is acceptable. [links]
All modern engines are compatible with full-synthetic and synthetic-blend oils, according to Kelley, and it’s also okay to switch from mineral-based to synthetic oil and back again as long as the oil always meets the viscosity and service specs for that engine, which are detailed in the owner’s manual. In fact, many modern oils are a blend of mineral and synthetic base stocks. here
A generation or two ago, engines were factory-filled with a special oil that contained an extra dose of detergent and other additives that helped new engine parts, especially bearings and piston rings, wear in together. The metallic debris from this “break in” would be carried away by the break-in oil and flushed from the engine on that first oil change. But that was before the advent of computer-controlled machine tools, and the very close tolerances of modern engines.
The benefit of a synthetic-blend oil is mostly related to durability–it will hold up better in the most challenging conditions, such as long runs under load at high speed. [links]
Once you have all the required tools and the oil and filter kit, follow the steps below to perform the oil change. The engine oil capacity for a 15 or 20 HP 4 Stroke Mercury Outboard Motor is about 1.0 Liter or (1.1 U.S. quart).
To get the oil and filter change done, you will need the following tools:
Step 5: Start the engine and idle for about 5 minutes. Check for any oil leakage.
Once a year, as you prepare to put your Mercury outboard into storage, you face a variety of maintenance tasks. One of these, changing the gear oil, meets Mercury's maintenance requirements and gives you a glimpse into how the engine's gears are holding up. You can move on to the next job if they are. If not, ask yourself whether you want to pay for gear-box repairs now, or after you're stranded someplace far from home.
Unscrew and remove the vent plug. The vent plug is located near the top of the lower unit, almost straight up from the drain plug. As soon as you loosen the vent plug, the flow of gear oil from the drain plug will steadily increase. Remove the washer and stow it next to the drain plug. Stick your thumb and forefinger into the flow from the drain plug. here
Unscrew and remove the drain plug located near the port-side bottom of the lower unit using a Phillips screwdriver. The oil might drip, but it won't really flow out of the lower unit until you remove the vent screw. Remove the washer from the screw and place the screw in a secure location where it won't get lost. more