cuu508
26.05.2021 14:12:18
I keep a bag of impellers and t stats for my motors on hand, so when in doubt I swap them out, better safe than sorry but unless you ask for the stat to be changed, I doubt most shops would just arbitrarily change it. here
See full version: Honda Thermostat
I keep a bag of impellers and t stats for my motors on hand, so when in doubt I swap them out, better safe than sorry but unless you ask for the stat to be changed, I doubt most shops would just arbitrarily change it. here
I use the boat in salt water, and put about 50 hours on the engine each summer. here
Is this a normal amount of build up? Or, should I be worried about a bigger issue? more
I wouldn't assume they did anything. But keep in mind that an outboard uses seawater to cool itself, so whatever the pump sucks up, goes through the cooling system.
Its hard to say by a pic whether that's extreme or just normal deposits, it depends on what type of water you run in. Saltwater and muddy rivers tend to be the worse than lake water.
I get three to five years out of a thermostat in saltwater, but I'm fanatical about flushing the motor after every use and launch only upstream in freshwater. I've removed thermostats on a few friends motors that didn't last a year. Whether or not to change the stat is a matter of judgement and experience with your type of use. On a freshwater only motor, the stat could last for many years. here
I purchased the boat and engine (1999 130hp) in 2003. The yard winterized the engine for the first two years. Thereafter I did it. Last summer the yard installed a new impeller/water pump. I assumed they changed the t-stat as well.
If you have an F225 engine pre-2005, be aware that the tstat (copper) will corrode the block (aluminum) where the tstat sits. When it corrodes through, salt water is sprayed into the air intake and will trash the engine. How do I know? - my stbd engine now has a new powerhead. My port engine is somewhat corroded but I caught it in time.
Hi all, This is unfortunately another Yamaha issue. Corrosion at the T-stat housing. I have a pair of 2004 F225, 600 hrs. I was "fortunate" in that during my winterization this Nov, the shop I have do my work - knows to look for this. They probe the T-stat housing for corrosion. If the wall is permeable - they pull the powerhead and weld a sleeve in the Block of the T-stat housing. If not permeable, they apply an aluminum infused epoxy to the T-stat housing. It now becomes an annual inspection (an extra cost - because you have to pull a lot of stuff out of the way to get to the T-stats). I did the mid sections 2 years ago. I do flush after every use (engine warm) and change all the anodes. These motors are professionally serviced and maintained. Very disappointing. The motors run great. Now that I have done the mid sections, new oil pan, oil pumps, seals (the complete mid section job) due to corrosion and now the T-stat housing. I can only hope I can manage the corrosion "disease" to get a few more years out of these.
I am happy to say - that when inspected for this years winterization and service (Nov 15, 2015) - both motor T-stat housings were fine. The epoxy holds up and welded in sleeve is like new. [links]
I hope this helps someone else avoid the very costly issue due to a crazy design by Yamaha. BTW, both my engines had the mid-section corrosion; another really bad design. more
Installed new ones! Cleaned up the corrosion as best I could! Only five hundred hours on the motor! Motor is very strong! Starting to look at new motor though! Anybody have a preference on a new 300 outboard motor?
Doug, that OX 66 is a piece of junk, I'll buy it tight now. jk more
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When you need to replace the thermostat on a Mercury 200 horsepower motor, remember that there's a thermostat for each cylinder. The air and fuel rail hoses may partially block access to the bolts you must remove to gain access, and may hinder the removal of the cover, the gasket, the thermostat and the seal somewhat. Even so, there is sufficient room to remove and replace these parts without disconnecting the hose.
Locate the thermostat cover on the top of each cylinder head; it's a small oval-shaped cover, secured by two bolts. Draw a small match-mark between the cylinder head and the cover with a paint stick. Remove the bolts with a 14 mm thin-walled socket and extension and pull the cover from the cylinder head. more
Press down on the top cover lock. Lift the top cover up, forward and away from the motor. Make the boat safe to work on by removing the battery cables from the battery.