alanpayne143
22.05.2021 12:53:27
The hull characteristics are: here
See full version: Sea-Doo Onboard
The hull characteristics are: here
The hull characteristics are:
The hull characteristics are: more
One of the most important decisions is hull design. Sea-Doo has three different hull styles and each offer riders different ride characteristics.
The only Sea-Doo watercraft with the T3 hulls design is the award-winning RXP-X 260.
Hi, still getting some cavitation on initil hole shot, everything is fine if I ease on the throttle and no loss of top end, just seems if I floor the throttle right off the RPMs get up to 8000 but we go nowhere for a few seconds, eventually the power starts to come on but there is definite hesitation and a little vibration. Looking at the possible issues I am leaning towards resealing the ride plate or some leading edge damage on one or both of impellors. here
Withe regards to resealing the ride plate, is it as easy as running round the outside of the ride plate with some good quality marine sealant or would it be best to remove and reseat? I dont really want to be out of the water for any extended period of time, I have had enough down time this year to last a few summers already!!
I sometimes will put my sea doo in the water and leave it in over the weekend. I'm always afraid one day I'm going to go down to the dock and find it on the lake bottom. What is the drive shaft seal comprised of and what could cause it to leak? Is it submerged when the sea doo is just sitting in the water? Has anyone had one sink because this seal leaked? How else, besides the drain plugs, could water get into the hull and sink this thing? I'm eventually going to get a drive-on dock as soon as I can find a good used one for a decent price but for right now I'll just have to keep it in the water and it makes me a bit nervous. Thanks.more
edit: Just saw a thread about bailer lines letting water in. I know for certain mine are tied up high above water level.
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The first cause for potential carbon ring failure is also the most common – and gratefully, the easiest to avoid: excessive heat. While not in direct contact to the driveshaft, the carbon ring caps the bellows (the corrugated black rubber boot that contains the shaft’s ball bearing) that encloses the shaft. The carbon ring is preloaded against a tapered, machined support ring (ie. hat), which is held in place on the shaft by a keyed circlip. It’s the carbon ring pressing against the hat on the driveshaft that makes the watertight seal. more
When under optimal conditions (correctly installed, operated and serviced), a carbon ring can last upwards to 100-to-150 operating hours. Yet, we find more often than not, premature failure of the carbon ring directly linked to operator error, misuse and damaged equipment. Thankfully, there are several telltale signs to alert a Sea-Doo owner well before a catastrophic failure – that is, between the watercraft’s regular service intervals.
The Watercraft Journal spoke with Greenhulk PWC Performance‘s own Jerry Gaddis, who recommended upgrading to the new style carbon ring hat. Jerry explained, “The new carbon seal hat is 5mm thicker. That means its putting more tension on the carbon ring for a better seal. The kit is less than $90 bucks and comes with the new thicker hat and a brand new carbon seal. It’s the cheapest insurance policy you can get.”
As the driveshaft spins, so does the hat – with its flat machined surface – pressed against the stationary carbon ring. This of course, generates friction. Friction causes heat, and excessive heat often leads to early failure. The carbon ring is only cooled when the Sea-Doo is in the water – whether idling or at speed. The heat generated by the hat’s surface spinning against the face of the carbon ring can lead to premature wear (and failure) when operated too long out of the water.