sjalexandre
29.05.2021 10:35:43
He has checked all of the vacuum hoses. here
See full version: 150 starts and runs only at full throttle
He has checked all of the vacuum hoses. here
He has also by-passed the fuel system with a fuel tank suspended over the scooter and plugged directly into the fuel intake on the carb. [links]
My father is troubleshooting his scoot in Minnesota. It's an Evo Sales 150 Retro with about 300 KM on it. He has changed the oil once already. The other day it started and ran fine. He rode it 3 miles uphill to a friend's house. It hesitated to start but then he got it going. On the way back home (down hill) it would die whenever he let off on the throttle. Now it will only start and run only at full throttle.
This scoot has the gas tank under the floor and a vacuum activated fuel pump. He disconnected the fuel line at the carb and ran the started and plenty of gas peeed out of the fuel pump. [links]
He has disconnected the emission valve and plugged the holes. The is the one that seems to emerge from the exhaust manifold into a thick braided tube and goes to a valve block that is activated by a vacuum hose from the intake column under the carb.
I had about 1000 miles on it since I rebuilt the engine compartment, and it didn't throw a code until it got to the point of needing full throttle for 20 miles or so (was an interesting drive home). First code. 45 (O2 rich). Pulled the air cleaner cover, turned the key to run, and saw the drips from around the fuel injector. The ECM was able to compensate at higher throttle positions, but we were flooding it at idle. After replacing the O-rings, it ran great for about 20 miles, then started hesitating at low throttle again, and threw another code. This time, it threw 21 (TPS High), 42 (Electronic Spark Timing), and 45. Cleared the computer and drove it again to make sure I didn't have residual codes from before the O-ring. This time, it only threw 21. Replaced the TPS, and it has run flawlessly since. [links]
Had the same issue with the convertible. Not sure if this will help. but here is the history and repair mine required.. [links]
I was only able to run it for 4 or 5 minutes but it seemed to be good. I bought it not even a week ago and knew there were issues with it. I have a feeling I need to pull the throttle body apart and clean it. When I pulled the fuel regulator and also the injector there was some junk in there. I will pull it tomorrow and clean it. Hopefully because it's covered in snow right now. [links]
Posts: 84
From: Winchester, NH, USA
Registered: Oct 2011 more
Posts: 84
From: Winchester, NH, USA
Registered: Oct 2011
Posts: 8835
From: California.U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2002
I pulled the bowls and I cannot be certain but it appeared to 7-8 teaspoons of fuel but I could be way off here
is your cable freeplay allowing the throttle plates to fully close?
I am so close! dying to ride it!
pilot screws. hum? What are these pilot screws you speak of? here
so, pilot screws. what effect do they have? I will do some google work. [links]
I've cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced the inline filter, checked out the fuel pump, removed the carburator, carefully cleaned every part (including jets) and checked the intake manifold for leaks. with no success. Any ideas on what's going on? here
My lawn tractor will only start at full throttle and choke. Once started, a huge cload of blue smoke exits the muffler until choke is moved to 1/2 position. Any attempt to move choke below 1/2 or throttle below full engagement, engine dies. If left to warm up, approx. 10 min., at full throttle and 1/2 choke, choke can be moved to about 1/8 position or throttle can be moved to 1/2 (not both) before engine dies. Engine will not run without choke engaged.
Double-check the carb, running on choke is textbook symptom of not enough gas.
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