See full version: SHOREMASTER BOAT LIFT ACCESSORIES
Yes. All ShoreMaster boat lift parts and accessories come with installation instructions, all of which can be found on our website . Even if something seems intuitive and you’re great at DIY, we ask that you read the instructions before installing any ShoreMaster product or connecting accessories: if you don’t, you could get injured and might invalidate your warranty. Better safe than sorry! [links]
Yes, we do. ShoreMaster carries reliable, industry-leading boat dock lifts and accessories. You can rest assured that every product you purchase is high quality, but just in case something does go wrong, ShoreMaster offers a limited warranty on our products to give you complete peace of mind. Warranty coverage begins on the date you purchased the product and guarantees that the products are free from defects in materials or workmanship, or we’ll repair or replace them. What’s more is that when you register your dock or lift for full warranty coverage, you can receive a free gift: read more about the details of registration and warranties . here
Yes, as long as you have a ShoreMaster lift. Enhancing the form and function of your dock and boat lift doesn’t mean overhauling your entire system. ShoreMaster boat lift parts and accessories can be added to your existing ShoreMaster boat lift. If you need to switch rail kits for a new boat or upgrade your lift by adding a motor, you can do that, as long as you’re following the installation instructions. Like all ShoreMaster products, boat lift accessories are durable, easy to use, and easy to install, uninstall, and move whenever you need to.
A well-designed dock looks beautiful and performs effortlessly. From Solar Lights to Dock Furniture, Steps and Ladders to Cleats and Bumpers ShoreMaster dock accessories enhance both the look and functionality of your dock system.
Your boat lift system is one of the centerpieces of your waterfront system. It does the heavy lifting—literally—of keeping your boat safe and making access to the water quick and hassle-free. You want a boat lift that you can trust with accessories that look good and make your boat dock perform at its very best. Bunks, guides, stops, rails, box holders, and tire caddies might not be the most glamorous accessories, but they’re some of the most important for getting the most out of your boat lift parts and dock system, so you want to make sure you’re getting the best accessories you can. Here are some of the most frequently asked questions that we get about our boat lift parts and accessories and the answers you’re looking for. [links]
Finding a local ShoreMaster dealer is as easy as sending a message through our website . The odds that you’ll find a dealer nearby are good: ShoreMaster has the industry’s largest and most experienced dealer network. No matter where in the United States or Canada you are, you’ll be able to enjoy our waterfront knowledge and great customer service.
Some manufacturers of crank wheels use a hub that does not have a counter bore in the side that contacts the outer brake pad of the winch. This makes it possible that the hub is contacting the shoulder of the drive shaft preventing the hub from tightening against the brake pad locking the brake mechanism in the winch. This might also be caused by a broken or crushed brake pad. If you find a broken or crushed brake pad, replacing the pads (P/N 205123) should solve the problem. It would also be desirable to obtain a new crank wheel with a properly machined hub from the manufacturer of your lift. A counter bore in the face of the hub will allow the hub to contact the brake parts even if one of the pads gets broken. here
Find in the list below the problem you are experiencing with your winch, then click the “+” sign near a “Possible Cause” for an explanation of how to fix it.
It may be that the handle hub is seized onto the drive shaft thread by rust or corrosion so that it can not supply enough force on the brake pads and ratchet wheel to lock the winch. After removing the load from the winch, the handle (or wheel) should be able to be turned very easily on the drive shaft thread. This is designed to be a loose fitting thread. If there is any resistance to free movement, disassemble the parts on the end of the shaft so that the handle can be removed and then investigate the cause of the tightness. Note that if your winch uses a wheel in place of the standard crank handle, the threaded hub of the wheel is often not manufactured by Dutton-Lainson Company and may have been manufactured to tighter dimensions so that the threads do not move as freely as they should. Wheels are also sometimes manufactured with aluminum hubs instead of the steel hubs used on the standard handles. The aluminum threads can be more easily damaged and can be the reason the threads are not moving freely. After insuring that the handle hub threads move freely on the drive shaft thread, apply a small amount of grease on the thread and reassemble the winch.
Models B1500, B2500, and B3500 use needle bearings on the high-load area (gear side) of the winch shaft(s). Although rare, bearings could fail if the winch is used in harsh environments. The driveshaft(s) should have some looseness and be able to move side to side slightly. If there is an excess in side to side movement in any of these shafts, the needle bearings may have failed and will need to be replaced. To check this, the winch will need to be completely disassembled. Individual needles that are missing and have fallen out of the bearing indicate a bearing failure. These bearing are press fit into the bearing housing in the winch frame. On model B1500 there are two bearings used, one on the main driveshaft and one for the gear being driven by the main driveshaft. Both of these bearing housings are welded to the frame. A hammer and punch are required to get the bearing out of the housing. This will destroy the bearing; however since it is being replaced it doesn’t matter. Since the winch is disassembled you can use a vise to press the new bearing into the bearing housing. Order bearing P/N 205131 for the main shaft and bearing P/N 205130 ( large 1 bearing) for drive gear shaft. On model B2500 models the bearing housing for both the primary shaft and the secondary shaft are not welded to the main frame, so to replace a bearing simply order both the housing and bearings as they will come already pressed together. Order part P/N 404479 for the primary shaft housing and part P/N 205183 for the bearing. If the large 1 bearing ( P/N 205133) in the main frame need to be replaced, it will have to be removed with a hammer and punch in the same matter as mentioned as above on B1500 models. There is also a needle bearing (P/N 205134) used in the gear positioned between the primary and secondary driveshaft’s. If this bearing needs to be replaced it will have to be pushed out and a new bearing pressed back into the gear. Model B3500 is much the same as the B2500, both primary and secondary driveshaft’s use the same bearings (P/N 205183) and the same bearing housing (P/N 404476).
Remove the gear cover from the winch by first removing the parts from the end of the drive shaft and removing the crank handle. Examine the ratchet pawl and spring, and the bolt and spacer that hold the pawl in place. The pawl should have significant spring pressure keeping it engaged with the teeth of the ratchet wheel. Also examine the tip of the ratchet pawl and the teeth of the ratchet wheel, neither should show any significant wear. Confirm that a brake pad is present on both sides of the ratchet wheel and that the pads do not show any obvious damage. Thread the handle back onto the drive shaft. The pawl should be aligned with the ratchet wheel so that it cannot be forced off to one side of the wheel. Turn the crank handle clockwise and observe the action of the pawl. It should click into each of the ratchet wheel teeth with no binding or hesitation. A broken spring or pawl, a bent ratchet support bolt or the pawl seized onto the ratchet spacer should be obvious if they exist. Obtain and install the necessary repair parts. If the spring is simply disengaged from the pawl or the pawl is disengaged from the wheel, reassemble these parts into their proper positions as follows. Remove the handle from the winch. Grip the ratchet wheel and both brake pressure plates as a group and slide them toward the end of the drive shaft. Rotate the ratchet spring counter clockwise until the long end catches against the drive shaft bearing. Then rotate the pawl counterclockwise so that the hook end of the spring catches it and then continue to rotate approximately one half turn more. Hold in this position and slide the ratchet wheel and brake plates back into position against the large washer on the shaft. Release the pawl allowing it to snap into engagement with the wheel. Reinstall the crank handle and confirm that the winch functions properly before reassembling the gear cover and drive shaft parts.
If the winch doesn’t click going up, the winch is wound backwards. Clockwise: up. Counterclockwise: down. more
The #1 problem is cables are adjusted incorrectly. more
Look at the first two numbers in your model number and multiply by 100: [links]
30108 = 3000 lbs. capacity / 108" capacity
Replacing the whole caliper is often not super expensive, and I do actually recommend it instead of renovating it. more
When dust and rust get collected on these bracket slides, the brake pads will get stuck in the brake pad bracket and push at the brake disc. more
This will cause the brake calipers not to release properly when you release the handbrake. [links]
Here is a detailed list of the 7 most common causes of a sticky brake caliper: