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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
I sure appreciate all that you do as Eric the Car Guy. more
I’d like to suggest a video regarding the issue of whether a compression test should be performed on a warm engine/ cold engine. Does it matter? Perhaps you could take wet/ dry readings on a cold engine, then let it warm up and take the readings again. This would show you viewers how much the readings can vary, whether this is a legitimate factor, etc.,
Good wisdom. Again, I’m such a klutz and posted this on the wrong part of the forum. It’s meant for the ETCG Suggestion tab. đ here
Thanks for the suggestion.
6. Remove spark plugs. [links]
Look down on your engine to find the cylinder that’s closest to the front of the engine. Once you’ve found it, put your test compressor’s hose in the spark plug slot and turn it clockwise by hand until it’s locked in place. Make sure to check the sizing label on your hose, and match it to the size of your spark plugs. When testing a diesel engine, use a gauge designed for diesel since it has a high compression tolerance. Youâll then check the end of the gauge for a metal connector that can fit on the end of the hose adapter.
Fit your wrench with an extension handle and a spark plug to make the removal process easier. Then, fit the socket into the engine holes uncovered by the wires that were removed. Once you have the wrench on the spark plug inside, turn it counterclockwise until you can lift it out of your engine. Be sure to label the spark plugs with masking tape or chalk to remember which cylinder they belong to. You can also check them for any damage while theyâre out. They should be replaced if they look worn out.
3. Remove the injection fuse or fuel pump. more
Check your engine where you should see a series of black cables that come out at the top end. Grab each wire at the end and twist it, while pulling it up to detach it from the engine block. The opposite end of the wires will still be plugged in, so you’ll be unable to take them out of the car. You can push them aside, so they’re off the engine. [links]
Re: Compression testing, hot or cold?
Howdy, Rude one.<br /><br />Parts change dimensions when warmed up, and lubrication is assured.<br /><br />I would expect slightly higher psi on a warm engine.<br /><br />What matters is the spread among your cylinders, not the absolute meansurements.<br /><br />As long as all cylinders measure above 100psi and don't spread that measure more than 10-15% you have a good engine.<br /><br />Higher numbers do not indicate a "better" engine.<br /><br />Good luck.
Re: Compression testing, hot or cold? here
Re: Compression testing, hot or cold?
Re: Compression testing, hot or cold? [links]
Thanks guys, sorry for the delayed response, had to leave town on urgent business. Makes a lot of sense, all the different input put together. I will deffinately also do a warm as well as a wet test next time out. Luckily I'm not trying to track down a problem, was just curious what my compression readings were.<br /><br />Thanks again. [links]