See full version: Fogging engine and using same Spark Plugs
If its firing on all plugs, you don't have a problem. you also don't have to fog it (next winter) until it quits, just until it smokes, then shut it off. Cylinders are now oiled, and the plugs aint. Haven't had a problem in my boats doing that for YEARS. And also close of all openings too. Plastic bag over the carb, exhaust plugged best ya can, and after stabiling the gas, tape the vent. more
I've had the same plugs for a couple years now. I always put a half cup of oil (or so) down the carb to winterize. Any oil in the cumbustion chamber seems to burn off in a minute or two after the first spring start up. I see no reason for concern.
I fog my engine every time I leave the lake and have no problems with fouling. I just fog her till she smokes before I turn her off. [links]
I don't change my plugs every year. This will be the third year on the plugs that's in it now and the engine runs great. They've been fogged twice and I haven't had any problems. The plugs in your car can run for thousands of hours, the plugs in your boat should be good for a couple hundred anyway.
We’ve reviewed how important it is to make your vessel’s location known, and to listen carefully for signs of nearby obstacles — but what signals should you be listening for? There are two different types of sound blasts to be aware of: short blasts and prolonged blasts. Short sound blasts last about one second, while prolonged blasts last between four and six seconds. here
If you enjoy recreational boating, the chances are that you will encounter foggy conditions at some point or another. While you can take several steps for safe boating in sudden fog, preparing your vessel and passengers ahead of time is the best way to handle reduced visibility.
There are several different types of fog, but the two most likely to affect your time on the boat are advection fog and radiation fog. Advection fog — also known as sea fog or lake fog — is fog caused by moist air moving over a cool surface and is common over bodies of water. Radiation fog is the dense fog that often rolls in overnight and usually begins on land before moving over bodies of calm water. more
Navigating a boat in reduced visibility requires a significant level of care and attention. “Reduced visibility” or “restricted visibility” refers to any condition in which you have difficulty seeing due to fog, mist, inclement weather or other similar causes. Typically, fog is considered “dense fog” if you can see one or fewer nautical miles away. more
When sounding your own blasts, never sound a single blast for too long. This way, every vessel has a chance to be heard, and collisions are more easily avoided. If you have to anchor or have run aground, it’s crucial that you continue to make your location known using the following signals: [links]
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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. here
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And what of that second scenario—the one where the core engine is intact but the ancillaries fail? Whether your engines are old or new, gasoline or diesel, the components that reside outside of the core engine are constantly at risk due to the salty marine environment. Corrosion is the main culprit here, and the battle against it is constant and never-ending. You should inspect your engine visually every month for corrosion, and when you find it, remove it down to bare metal, prime the area, and paint it with manufacturer-approved engine paint. The key to corrosion is catching it early and treating it aggressively, before the component is so deteriorated that it has to be replaced. This is especially true of bolts and other fasteners. Once they’re rusted they may no longer do their job properly, leading to leaks and more corrosion and maybe even overheating, and you’ll pay hell getting them out.
One final note about oil: if you want your engines to last, make sure that whoever changes it does it the right way. For most boaters the engine manufacturer’s maintenance recommendations (which, by the way, apply whether you use petroleum or synthetic oil) mean changing oil once a year. If your boat will stay where it gets cold, change the oil as close to winter lay-up as possible to prevent over-the-winter damage from the contaminants that naturally accumulate in it. Ideally, drain your oil right before the boat is hauled, refill, then run the engine for a minute or two to make sure everything is coated with clean oil. When you start the boat in the spring, remember that all of the oil has drained into the pan and let the engine idle for a minute or two to recirculate everything. If you don’t, you could produce as much wear in five minutes as all of your running does for the rest of the year. [links]
It is theoretically possible to subject your engines to such severe operation that you need to reduce the oil-change interval—possible but unlikely. The most likely causes of “severe operation” in boats are extended low-speed operation, where fuel is incompletely burned, and unusually heavy loads. The former is unlikely to be a problem in modern engines due to electronic controls, and the latter is even more rare, unless your convertible happens to double as a long-liner. In other words, most of us should just stick to the factory recommendations. With one exception … here
Always drain oil when it is warm. Modern multi-viscosity oil does not need to be hot to flow easily but oil should be well above the ambient air temperature. If you delegate this job to a mechanic be aware that some can be less than scrupulous about this, draining the oil whenever they have a free minute—which may be when the engine is stone cold. Draining oil from a cold engine can leave as much as a half-quart of dirty oil behind, which will let all that acid and water vapor work its magic over the long winter. Always change the oil filter when you change the oil, too; it can hold as much as a quart of dirty oil.
Okay, I admit that the title of this article is just a teeny bit misleading. I mean, really, nothing lasts forever. Not even Jack LaLanne. But I do know a few tricks that the average boater can use to make his engines—be they gasoline or diesel—last for a very long time. Maybe even as long as the boat itself.
This 1987 135-bhp Ford Lehman SP135 diesel has approximately 3,671 engine hours on her and yet she still purrs like a kitten thanks to lots of TLC.