Step 1: Trip the kill switch – Before you start working on the propeller, it is always recommended that you trip the kill switch on the boat. You can also place the gear in neutral as an extra precaution.
See full version: DIY; Remove and Change a Boat Propeller Quick and Easily
Step 1: Trip the kill switch – Before you start working on the propeller, it is always recommended that you trip the kill switch on the boat. You can also place the gear in neutral as an extra precaution.
Prop Wrench
Step 1: Remove the cotter pin – Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully remove the cotter pin and set it aside. here
Protect Your Engine
It's also important to replace your engine's old oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center. The lower unit gear case lubricant on outboards and inboard/outdrive engines should also be flushed and changed. This will eliminate water from the system and provide better overall protection for key internal parts. Also replace oil filters on inboard and outdrive engines.
When cleaning the interior, don't forget the teak, vinyl and carpet. These are areas where dirt, combined with moisture can breed mildew, especially in the dark environment of a covered boat with little or no ventilation. To help keep your boat free of mildew, you may want to install a dehumidifier or use one of the odor/moisture absorbers offered by various manufacturers. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat for storage in a climate controlled area. here
For outdoor storage, a quality 8- to 10-ounce cotton canvas boat cover is ideal. Make sure that the cover is properly sized and fitted for your particular boat model. It should also be supported so water will run off the cover and not accumulate in pockets.
Before putting your boat to bed for the winter, be sure to give it a good cleaning inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. Once the exterior of your boat is sparkly clean, apply a quality polish to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. here
There's a good reason many animals hibernate during the winter. Preparing for long periods of inactivity and seeking protection against extreme climatic conditions are necessary steps for survival. It's no different when it comes to your boat and motor. Proper "winterization" is a must for protecting your craft and ensuring it's in ship-shape condition when spring rolls around. Although you should always consult the owner's manuals for winterization procedures for both your boat and your engine, here are some tips for safeguarding your valuable recreational asset during the "off season."
If your boat will be kept in dry storage for the winter, the waterproof quality and strength of the cover will not be important factors. In this situation, the main concern is keeping dust and other particulate matter from gathering on your boat, so nearly any type of tarp or cover will get the job done. A fitted cover is preferred, however, because it will also keep mice, rats and other undesirables from seeking refuge in your boat and damaging the interior.
It's also important to replace your engine's old oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center. The lower unit gear case lubricant on outboards and inboard/outdrive engines should also be flushed and changed. This will eliminate water from the system and provide better overall protection for key internal parts. Also replace oil filters on inboard and outdrive engines.
Whether you'll be storing your boat outside or inside a garage or structure, your craft should be covered. If it will be outdoors and exposed to elements, you'll need a storage cover to protect the interior of the boat from the harsh winter environment. Even if your boat will be kept in dry storage, a cover of some kind is recommended to guard the interior against dirt, dust, pests and bird droppings.
Step 9: Tighten the nut ensuring that the hole in the shaft aligns with one of the slots in the castellated nut. Either tighten the nut to the correct torque setting as specified by the manufacturer, or use a special prop wrench that will ensure that the nut is not overtightened. Use a new, suitably sized, cotter pin, passing it through the shaft before bending up the tails to lock the nut in position. here
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Step 2: Unscrew the propeller nut with a suitable socket. You'll need to wedge a block of wood between the prop blades and the cavitation plate to prevent the prop from turning as you loosen the nut. more
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Step 7: Smear on a little waterproof grease. Use one that's recommended by the manufacturer, and never use any grease containing graphite. (Graphite is one of the most noble of metals in the galvanic scale and can quickly lead to severe corrosion of the outboard leg.) here