bitwaffle
12.06.2021 23:17:37
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Any luck? Time to do this the hard way! here
Beware, at this point if your bolt is beginning to feel "soft" it may be twisting and about to break.
Take a wire brush and clean the bolt of loose rust and dirt. We will then use some PB Blaster or similar PENETRATING OIL (I can vouch for its effectiveness). Apply oil to the bolt and threads, covering it completely, then give it some time to work; I prefer to spray it every hour for 2 hours. It may work quicker or longer then that stated time, that is my preference. I’m impatient.
A nut splitter is slipped over the seized nut, then a screw on the side of the splitter is tightened which forced a wedge into the side of the nut. Keep cranking the nut splitter screw until the nut makes an audible pop and you get through the nut. Back off the nut splitter screw and clean the bolt of the split nut. Try adding more penetrating oil to the newly exposed bolt threads, then use one of the other methods described above to remove the bolt. With the nut removed, the bolt should be much easier to remove. [links]
Another way to get leverage is to use your wrench or socket wrench and add a pipe over the handle as an extension. However, the wrong tool for the job could hurt you. I suggest you do it right and buy a breaker bar.
These gyrations are caused by builders who brick wall the CBs and don't leave room between the items to easily maintain them. more
Ok the socket worked and the row of 4 CB's pushed out of the panel. Was extremely difficult getting 2 ring terminals on the CB but I managed to do it. [links]
Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer [links]
Sometimes I have the breaker holes laser cut in the new panel with the rectangular indexing nibs inside the holes to match the slot on the breaker barrel. On smaller projects I manually drill the breaker holes with a 7/16" drill bit and then add 1/8" holes in the instrument panel above each circuit breaker hole so the breaker's indexing washer can engage this hole from behind keeping the breaker locked in place to resist rotating when tightening. Here is a recent layout I did for a Super Cub wing root breaker/switch panel:
I was adding an outlet and removed a blank cover over an existing outlet to see what was behind it, and noticed it had a red wire that was capped, and a hot and neutral that were capped together under one nut. I put my multimeter to the hot/neutral combo and it sparked and burned my multi tip. I went and cut the main and uncapped it, and noticed that the end of the neutral was completely gone and burned on the end. There was no melted piece, so my guess is that someone (possibly me) twisted them together and then it melted through the neutral until the wire just evaporated? Interestingly, the inside of the plate had my handwriting on it and said "220v - Marked as Dining Room A/C in breaker. White is ground." more
Maybe this used to be the wiring for my old A/C unit before I moved in 15 years ago and replaced my AC? I checked the breaker box and I have a separate breaker also listed as A/C and my AC works just fine with this breaker off. I measured the hot/neutral and it measures as 115v, not 220. The breaker is 30 amp. I restripped the wires to remove the burnt ends and then capped them individually and put them back in the receptacle. Everything seems to still be running fine in my house and my A/C works. I then cut the breaker to it so they aren't live. [links]
I have not touched this outlet in at least ten years. I guess my question is, is that a danger to have the hot and neutral capped together and if so, why didn't it trip the breaker, which has apparently been on this entire time? And lastly, I assume it's fine now that I capped them all individually and cut the breaker? [links]
This panel has the one bar on the rigt where all the grounds are screwed in, and another very similar bar on the left where grounds AND white are screwed in; I was told by an electriciant this is normal (when I first saw it, I was confused as to why there was white and grounds screwed into same bar; the electrician said something about a green screw indicating this was the kind of box where white and ground would go into same bar fine, and this was expected). [links]
I think you are confusing some terms between AC and DC. Neutral is not called a common in AC wiring. Common is normally a term in DC circuits for ground. which is a current carrying conductor in that usage. more
The reason you can touch a white safely (though it's NEVER a good idea) is that, if all switches are off and no current is flowing from hot through any device. then the POTENTIAL (voltage) between neutral and ground is zero. If there is some sort of problem with the wiring, the neutral can indeed have potential and be as much of a problem as the hot. As was said. white can also be used as a true hot. but it needs to be marked as such at each end and any connections in between.
Any help would be appreciated; I'm looking to understand in what scenario you'd see sparks where the common is screwed into the breaker's ground bar, but the breaker doesn't trip.
This is a line that is the newer yellow 12 gauge; has hot, common, and ground. The ground appears to be scrwed in the breaker box fine, and the hot is scrwed tight onto the breaker.