I can't reach it look like I need one person to help
See full version: How to remove stuck lower unit
I can't reach it look like I need one person to help
Re: how to remove stuck lower unit
Re: how to remove stuck lower unit
Thank you. Then it must be the shift rod. here
Sounds like you have not disconnected the shift rod-----have you? I believe it disconnects below the lower carburetor.
Re: how to remove stuck lower unit
Remove the bearing carrier retaining bolts. Insert two small pry bars under the lip of the bearing carrier, and gently pry the housing and propeller shaft out of the lower unit as an assembly. [links]
Take out the bolts that connect the lower unit to the exhaust housing with a socket wrench. Slide the lower unit straight down and off the outboard. Set the lower unit upright in a bench vise. more
Pull the shift rod retainer from the top of the lower unit and pull the shift rod out of the lower unit. [links]
Remove the four bolts holding the water pump together from the water pump housing with a socket wrench. Slide the impeller from the lower unit and slide them up and off the driveshaft. Pull the impeller plate off the lower unit and slip it off the driveshaft. [links]
Your outboard motor has three distinct parts: a power head, which is the gasoline engine that powers the outboard motor; the exhaust housing that protrudes downward from the power head, wrapping around the exhaust system and the driveshaft; and the lower unit. You have to slide the lower unit from the motor to remove the driveshaft since the lower unit -- where the propeller, gear case and driveshaft are found -- is where the driveshaft is secured. [links]
Locate the pry tabs where the housing meets the lower unit and use a small pry bar to loosen the fit between the housing and the lower unit. Pull the driveshaft upward, removing the bearing housing, driveshaft and retaining ring.
[h=2] Hey guys, just got the boat on the water this spring after replacing all of the lower unit seals (oil seals on gearcase bearing along the prop shaft, oil seal under the water pump housing, etc). Looks like it's sealed up really nicely but I created a new problem. My shifter is stuck in forward. Prop clicks forward and doesnt move backward and even when I put the shifter in reverse using the throttle, it accelerates the in forward gear. [/h] [links]
Hey guys, just got the boat on the water this spring after replacing all of the lower unit seals (oil seals on gearcase bearing along the prop shaft, oil seal under the water pump housing, etc). Looks like it's sealed up really nicely but I created a new problem. My shifter is stuck in forward. Prop clicks forward and doesnt move backward and even when I put the shifter in reverse, it accelerates the prop i forward gear. more
I've seen similar posts with people recommending to force the lower unit gear shift because it is stuck in "no mans land" and this didn't work for me. I tried to force it with a ton of force and it doesn't budge. The shift spline on the lower unit moves with a lot of play and no resistance until about 180 degrees and then won't budge. I wonder if I reassembled the bearing carrier with the shifter out of place or something. Is this possible? What else can I try? [links]
I've seen similar posts with people recommending to force the lower unit gear shift because it is stuck in "no mans land" and this didn't work for me. I tried to force it with a ton of force and it doesn't budge. The shift spline on the lower unit moves with a lot of play and no resistance until about 180 degrees and then won't budge. I wonder if I reassembled the bearing carrier with the shifter out of place or something. Is this possible? What else can I try? To reiterate, the conventional methods of "making sure throttle shifter is in neutral and lower unit is in neutral before reinstalling" and "forcing lower unit shifter using vice grips until it clicks into the next gear" did not work. I'm wondering if I did something wrong in the reassembly of the lower unit or there is something else that I can try. [links]
[links]
I suppose you know that you must disconnect the shift linkage.
Re: Lower unit stuck on 18hp nissan
Going back to your original thermo thread, if thermo's housing is a complete mess, imagine the condition of all internal water passages. Not even flushing your engine for a entire month in vinegar will manage to clean all water passages that way, must be mechanically removed. That is remove power head and all water related lids and by mechanically scrapping with a wooden sushi stick do a complete interior passages clean out if you want that engine to run as a champ besides cooling properly as when new. Will need a new therrmo, thermo gasket, head and lower pan gaskets for that job.