If you have not checked to see what prop you should be running, Yamaha does have a site that show rigs with performance showing a lot of info
See full version: Sychronizing 90's tow cycle outboard carburetors
If you have not checked to see what prop you should be running, Yamaha does have a site that show rigs with performance showing a lot of info
That's what I was wondering. more
If all jets and passages are clean and everything set as manual states it should run as it should. [links]
Boscoe be not a two stroke guy.
Obviously I'm not a mechanic. more
. as part of a scheduled maintenance routine. Since the boat is new to me, I'm not sure one has ever been used to this point.
do not use starting fluid on anything 2 stroke period. your dealer sucks if it won't start after they supposedly worked on it.. what, if anything, did they do to it. tha fine tune screws don't have ta be anywhere close for it ta run, maybe a little rough but still run.
I have also heard of people making a DIY tuner, something like this:
If the mechanic did his job right and here is hoping he did, it could be that all you need to do is do the boat in water stages. i.e set idle speed and mixture screws.
Now some info that might be of some help: here
DIY gauges work just fine. Glass bottles, some stoppers and some tubing. Just did the same for a 30 Honda.
If you've cleaned carbs before, you know that they are all basically the same but these motors have some fine specs. If you can have a dealer do it for a little more money, it may be worth it. Think of the time it'll take you to get it right, tune it, and make sure you don't F up any of the needles, it MIGHT be better to pay extra so it's on the shops dime if it's not done right. here
Have you gotten an estimate from an authorized repair shop to clean and sync? I was looking at doing the same thing as you but with my Yamaha that runs great but it's a 2001, so I figure maybe this winter, just do some preventative maintenance. The ultra sonic cleaners from Harbor Freight are pretty cheap (about $75) and clean out the carbs pretty well. Then you have to sync them with a tool (around $100). more
Need serial#s.The three carbs are are all basically the same.The air screw is set on each one.
Top and bottom,no idle or slow idle or high idle set individual.
That will cause you to burn up the motor if you start messing with screws.
If I'm thinking about the right carb the air screw is on the side is the only adjustment on the carb itself.Start at 1 turn out and adjust from there.
The idle is set on the side of the motor through the linkage and a couple of screws.Again a FACTORY manual is needed.Seloc and Clymer DON"T cover the motors right.
I sent U a PM.J
Get a FACTORY manual and read.
In short, get your best operation on muffs and go to the water and back your boat in just as you were going to launch it but leave the winch rope/cable attached. Back off (unscrew) the low speed idle screws the width of the tip of your screwdriver at a time on all 3 carbs till you can idle and when put into gear, the engine will take the load and try to push your trailer/tow vehicle up the ramp. Then you are good to go. worked great for me with only 2 screwdriver blade with adjustments. that's like 1/32" of a turn sorta. not much. these carbs are really sensitive. The manual says that once you get them set up "leave them alone". "Not designed for minor engine tweaking". and I believe them. here
I just finished the procedure on my '02 90 triple which is basically the same critter. Charlie B directed me as to how to set it up on muffs and then how to tweak it in the water. If you look back a few days at a post of mine with the title something like "Ok guys here come the credits" I iterated the process Charlie B gave me, thanking him and others for their help and commented on what I had to do and the results. more