you will get more response if ya start a thread but welcome to iboats
when you depress key for selinoid it should have twelve volts
the rebuild kits are cheap and there are a few on ebay but make sure ya have power when you push your key in first
See full version: Johnson choke-primer solenoid
you will get more response if ya start a thread but welcome to iboats
when you depress key for selinoid it should have twelve volts
the rebuild kits are cheap and there are a few on ebay but make sure ya have power when you push your key in first
Re: Johnson choke-primer solenoid more
thanks for the quick response Joe. turned on the key and held it in for 5 seconds and boom,she fired right up.With the red lever perpendicular to the solenoid,was it pumping fuel continuously while cranking,whether the key switch was depressed or not? Plenty mahalo Guru. <br /> Also,can you recommend a site for buying omc and aftermarket parts?Is there a website where a guy can download schematics and the OMC part#'s.I'm running a 91 Johnson 88 special and an 85 Johnson 10 hp.
This is my first time on a forum. Your response above might relate to my issue. I just purchased a sailboat with a 1999 15 hp Johnson with an electric start. We depressed the key when attempting to start the engine which should have activated the solenoid. It would not start until I took off the cover and turned the red lever to the "up" position. This process defeats the purpose of having remote controls in the cockpit. The Johnson manual only shows the red lever as up or down. Should it be set straight astern for it to function in the electric start mode or could the solenoid be bad? A friend was assisting me and he said the solenoid normally makes a click and he heard none when we pressed the start key. Any light that you can shed on my problem would be greatly appreciated. [links]
BQ. With that RED lever in the opposite position, fuel will flow freely through it and into the leaf plate (reed) area with every pulse of the pistons.<br /><br />The reasoning for being able to turn it in that direction is if in case the battery goes dead.<br /> <br />Turn the RED lever so that it faces away from the solenoid body, then pump the fuel primer bulb a few times. This allows fuel to flow into the intake manifold area (same as what a choke would do). Now, return that RED lever to the automatic position as I mentioned previously.<br /><br />Turn the key to the on position, have the engine in neutral, wrap the starter cord around the flywheel, then pull it through without hesitating ie. get that rope clear off of the flywheel.<br /><br />The engine should start. You may need to leave that RED lever in the manual prime position until it starts. but try the method above first. more
Re: Johnson choke-primer solenoid
Twisting the lever into the PIC2 position did the same thing.
When I got home I was looking at the engine again and saw the little red lever on the fuel solenoid. Thinking "what does this do" I twisted it into the PIC2 position then back to the PIC1 position. I heard a small "click" when I did this.
it is very possible, or the key switch is sticking, when you push it in. take your electrical tester, disconnect the purple wire to the solenoid, connect pos, to purple wire, and ground the other. have someone turn the key to "on" and them push it in. you should get 12 volts, release key should be nothing. if this test out, as such, the solenoid could be sticking. the 1st picture is the correct position for normal operation. second, is the manual "choke". more
Couple of other things I found once I had the engine going.
Fuel Manifolds . The fuel supply and return manifolds send gasoline directly through the high pressure side of the fuel system. The fuel supply manifold provides pressurized gas to each fuel injector inlet port. The fuel return manifold supplies a direct passage for gasoline moving into the fuel injectors to run to the fuel chamber of the vapor separator.
To simplify the process of tracing and correcting an electronic or mechanical system fault contributing to an engine that cranks but won’t activate and being to work, we’ve created a easy-to-understand trouble chart that lists the most likely possible cause and the course of action needed to repair the problem. So, if your outboard motor cranks but will not turn on and start to run, use the trouble chart below to diagnose and remedy the issue.
Fuel injector pressure test. The fuel injector pressure test requires the use of an injector test fitting kit. Make sure to disconnect the batter cables at the battery terminals before beginning the procedure. Carefully relieve the fuel system pressure so as to avoid fuel spray reaching an ignition source. The test must be performed with the injectors mounted to the cylinder head and with the fittings installed with manifold retainer. more
Outboard turns over but will not start
CHAPTER ONE / GENERAL INFORMATION
Manual organization / Notes, cautions and warnings / Torque specifications / Engine operation / Fasteners / Lubricants / Gasket sealant / Galvanic corrosion / Propellers / Specifications
CHAPTER NINE / GEARCASE
Service precautions / Propeller / Water pump / Gearcase / Pinion gear depth (40-70 hp, V4, V6 and V8 models) / Specifications here
CHAPTER FOURTEEN / JET DRIVES
Maintenance / Water pump / Jet drive / Bearing housing / Intake housing liner / Specifications
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