[charlestaylor142]

RPM Information: 4500
Your engine's RPM range is important in choosing the right propeller for a given application. For example, if you look at your tachometer at top speed and it is not within the engine's RPM range then that is generally not good. You want your RPM's to be within the proper range while at wide open throttle (WOT). Be sure to do your testing under your normal boating conditions and with a good propeller (not bent, cracked, or excessively chipped).

[caulinda87]

The iboats Outboard Motor Forums are another excellent source of information. here

[davux]

more

[becauseIfuckingCANbitchz]

[jhoki]

[bitcoinboy]

more

[horseracing12]

I’m not sure why swapping the timing cam and flywheel would help.

[BobLemoine]

Hopefully will give you a visual and help you some. [links]

[atonmack87]

I was having spark issues on my 6 hp but I had a parts engine with a blown bottom cyl with good spark on both cyls. I transfered the mag plate from the good spark engine to the poor spark engine. But after making the switch and testing spark I don’t have spark on the top cyl. I’ve never done this before – What could have happened?

[jack8logan]

Taking the flywheel off proved to be a challenge. Like nearly everything else on this motor, it appeared to be undisturbed for the last 42 years. I bolted on my Harbor Freight puller, and it did not budge, even though the 1/4-20 stainless bolts I screwed into the flywheel were bending under the load. I tried a few gentle taps, and nothing. I heated the flywheel, still nothing. Finally, I supported the flywheel with 2 metal bars supported by sawhorses. Now I could safely whack the top of the puller without worrying about shock loads on the crank and bearings. That worked. and I didn't have to hit it very hard. more

[calmsupplements]

Not shown in this picture is a flat fiberglass washer that is on the spring side of the tilt mechanism. It is a thrust washer that prevents the aluminum pieces from rubbing against each other. The spring and bolt were originally aluminized. I treated the rusted areas with rust converter, and then painted them. I put silicon grease on the plastic cone when I reassembled it. more

[hilda4u]

It is a good idea to check the water pump on these motors, and I found my impeller to be worn out, and the pump housing corroded. Impellers are cheap enough, but housings are not. I decided to save some money and bore my housing out, using my Harbor Freight Mini Mill. I made a stainless steel liner from my scrapped Craftsman air compressor. By lucky coincidence, their inside diameters were the same. At right is a picture of the bored out housing and new liner.

[pluscandy09]

Removing the flywheel exposed an ignition system in pristine condition. Everything looked original. I replaced the condensers, but being cheap, I filed the points. They are working well, and may last many hours.

[Kalidratorma]

These are the levers that control the timing and throttle movements.
The throttle and timing levers are used and in excellent condition. There is no damage or corrosion on them at all. more

[moncler321]

This comes as seen with all parts shown in the picture including:
Throttle Control Lever: 0389123
Spark Advance Lever: 0320971
Throttle Lever Spring: 0314094
Throttle Link: 329889 more

[Etherael]

This sale is for the throttle control and spark advance levers for Evinrude & Johnson Outboard motors.

[sixy]

The throttle timing lever fits many, but not all, Johnson and Evinrude 2 cylinder Outboard motors with 35, 40, 45, 48, 50, 55 and 60 Hp from 1978-1992.