concetxos01
07.06.2021 12:45:26
Still, report your results to the dealer who installed the engine so they know what you found. [links]
See full version: Trim motor on suzuki 115hp outboard
Still, report your results to the dealer who installed the engine so they know what you found. [links]
I run a 23" on a 140 hp, on a 1300 lb boat with 10 degrees DR. At 6100 RPM, 1 person, 15 gals of fuel.
Stingray, I forgot to add that when I was looking for a new prop I called PowerTech Propellers, www.ptprop.com, and they were VERY helpful. They just needed all the info about the boat and how it was perforning at different RPMs and at top end and while I was on the phone they did their calculations and gave me their recommendations. They do not sell direct so you have to buy through a dealer. I purchased online from www.dansdiscountprops.com. $270 for a really nice stainless prop, drop shipped to me from the factory.
I doubt a 115 HP, could push a 23" prop on a 2000 lb boat with 19 Degrees DR.
Sounds like you need to lift by 2 holes at least. If the solid flow of water is way up there, the motor is set far too deep. Is the engine throwing a lot of spray around too? here
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First let's look at the trim switch.
You hit the remote trim switch to trim the engine up/down and nothing is working. The wiring to the trim switch relay is independent of the ignition wiring but shares the same WW power feed. This allows you to raise and lower the engine without turning on the ignition. When it doesn't work- the cause will usually be related to a power failure with the WW. It can be the switch, but that seems to be rare. The trim switch on side of the engine operates independently from a different power source.
Intermittent power loss can be difficult to find.. In my case, the wire connector to the WW off the battery switch started to fail. I would be running along, hit a wave and the engine would die. Or come up to a dock and put it in idle .. just dies and not start. Again, in my case, the WW is the power source to the dash and other electronics. The depth finder would flicker off, sometimes come back on, but mostly have to restart it. Then one day in my driveway, nothing worked - period. Started pulling wires to track and identify each one and what did they operate. Pulling on a short red wire off the back of the battery switch - the wire connector separated.. This was the power feed to the WW. Internally inside the wire connector -the wire ends were totally corroded at this point. Fixed the problem and was back in business.
Most common Reasons:
1) Spliced connections that have gone bad. Connectors not waterproofed that allow for unseen corrosion.
2) Wiring connectors have separated
3) Ground wire fails.
4) blown fuse [links]
This is one issue that surfaces on a regular basis and this generally deals with a loss of power source to the "engine control unit" (ECU).
With NO power to the ECM, the engine either stops (if running at the time) or will not start.
This situation usually effects the trim switch on the remote, which also fails to function.
RPM Information: 5250-5750
Your engine's RPM range is important in choosing the right propeller for a given application. For example, if you look at your tachometer at top speed and it is not within the engine's RPM range then that is generally not good. You want your RPM's to be within the proper range while at wide open throttle (WOT). Be sure to do your testing under your normal boating conditions and with a good propeller (not bent, cracked, or excessively chipped).
The iboats Outboard Motor Forums are another excellent source of information.
[links]