kelvie
04.06.2021 20:55:51
If your tilt does not work at the helm AND the engine will not turn over (Other electrical devices probably still work fine), try the tilt on the engine. [links]
See full version: Trimming suzuki outboard with no power
If your tilt does not work at the helm AND the engine will not turn over (Other electrical devices probably still work fine), try the tilt on the engine. [links]
I have received over a dozen emails and comments from various sites after I had my loss of power problem and thought I would post a summary so you don't have to read the entire string in my other post. This post covers Suzuki outboards that have lost power from the remote at the helm to the engine.
Check the fuses on front of the engine (there are 2), if they are good, investigate the white wire. Check for voltage at the engine and at the helm. If you look at picture three, you see a male barrel type terminal that is covered with clear plastic (circled). This is a test point for the white wire at the engine. I hooked my meter up to this connector when I was troubleshooting the circuit. You will probably see low or no voltage. [links]
The first picture is the main engine harness (circled). It is under the starter on the starboard side of the engine. If you look between the brown and pink wire, you can see the white wire. The wiring harness exits through the front of the engine as one harness (black and roughly 5/8" in diameter). It runs under the floor and surfaces under the helm. In my case, it surfaces as two harnesses, roughly 3/8" in diameter each. Basically the harness is split under the floor and some wires go to the binnacle while others go to the gauges. more
I had a separate fuse holder, identical to the white one on the front of the DF225 that came directly off the battery selector box at the stern, with 2 white wires going fwd to the helm out of the fuse holder.
It is sounding better, but still a little noisy. Definately must be air in the line. I noticed when I would remove the fill plug, the fluid that would trickle out was filled with lots of little bubbles. I figured I would let it sit over night with the trim down to allow the air to seperate to the top of the reservoir and repeat the process tonight. here
Is there another way to remove all the air? It seems like it is mixing the air back into the fluid when I raise it up. here
Re: Suzuki DT140 trim power unit making squealing noise
A real tech might know of a bltter way but that is what the service manual says to do. Don't check the level until you have let it sit for 5 minutes in the up position unless you are doing that already. Be patent, you will get the air worked out. [links]
manual says while filling and purging of air to raise and lower motor by hand, as the pump/motor just stirs up the air in the fluid. that makes sense to me. you have to release that manual tilt/trim screw on the side of motor backet in order to do it by hand. book also mentions Dexron11 automatic transmission fluid to add. Good Luck!
Cables themselves go bad internally, so keep that in mind
That sounds like a sick starter motor, Justice. Put some good jumper cables. . . battery + to the starter lug and - to the starter mount. If it does the same thing take your starter to an auto starter repair shop. They can rebuild it for a lot less than a replacement starter.
Re: Yamaha 150 wont crank, No trim/tilt more
Re: Yamaha 150 wont crank, No trim/tilt
Thanks for the info. I have taken all cables off and scrubbed them and the connections with a wire brush. I also disconnected the positive cable which supplies power to the starter and checked it with a voltage meter. It reads over 12 volts. When I connect it back to the starter and turn the ignition key to on position the voltage meter indicates 5-6 and the starter hums. I am guessing all my accessories still work because they are on a different ground cable which I just discovered. My knowledge of electrical systems only consist of knowing the difference between positive and ground.
Re: Yamaha 150 wont crank, No trim/tilt
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Fits Suzuki
V4 & V6 1986-90
Repl. 38100-92E00-OED,
38100-87D10-0ED, 01T
3-wire Connection
3-bolt Flange, Female Hex Shaft
O-ring Included
MUST BE INSTALLED AS A UNIT,
THE ORIGINAL PARTS ARE METRIC AND NO LONGER MADE,
THIS IS AN SAE UNIT.
The 3 Mounting Holes on the bracket are the same.
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