MaXviUs
15.05.2021 19:11:10
Thx for the responses. I'll do some research on marine generators. more
See full version: Charging a trolling motor while running it
Thx for the responses. I'll do some research on marine generators. more
So if the motor uses 1500 watts, a 2kw generator should be able to keep up with it, or a 3kw generator running at half speed for efficiency (and some extra capacity).
That's assuming the generator is AC, and the generator is plugged into the onboard charger. I think the wiring would get too confusing if I had 3 batteries wired with an onboard charger, and also wired with a generator charger. I'm looking for a setup that's wired properly and permanently, and doesn't require disconnecting wires.
Curious as to why you think "a 2 KW generator should more or less keep up with battery discharge." How do you plan to charge, by using the onboard charger or getting a generator with a built in charger? more
So if the motor uses 1500 watts, a 2kw generator should be able to keep up with it, or a 3kw generator running at half speed for efficiency (and some extra capacity). here
Below is a video I made going over the differences between the different chargers.
Essentially, electricity that is pumped into a battery when it can no longer accept it will destroy the water molecules in the battery acid. When this happens for a long time, the battery acid levels will drop due to evaporation, the lead plates will sulfate and can be exposed (which will cause irreparable damage), and the chemistry in the battery changes for the worse.
Yes, technically anytime your battery is hooked to a trickle charger after it has reached 100% capacity, it is overcharging and damaging your battery by evaporating water through hydrolysis, corroding the plates, and causing your battery to overheat. [links]
Keep in mind that all battery types cannot be charged with the same charger. The Minn Kota models are designed to charge flooded, wet-cell batteries of either the full maintenance or maintenance-free type, and they also charge maintenance-free, absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries.
Separate models are available for 12-, 24- and 36-volt trolling motor systems. Wiring one in is simple: You attach one set of positive and negative leads to the cranking battery and one set to each of the trolling motor batteries. You don’t have to remove any 24- or 36-volt jumper wires between the batteries because these chargers are designed to treat each battery independently with separate negative grounds. There is also a purple wire that runs to a positive terminal anywhere in the boat that is only hot when the engine’s ignition switch is turned on. [links]
The number of discharge/recharge cycles a battery can complete before reaching that 50-percent point is considered its service life.
I’m not a huge fan of the DC chargers that operate as simple battery isolators and link all our cranking and trolling motor batteries together in parallel the instant the engine’s ignition key is turned on: I want the cranking battery to get what it needs first, and that amounts to more charging power than it did in years past. here
You are much more likely to hear a sob story about how great the fishing was until the trolling motor batteries died.
Still, the fact that 24- and 36-volt motors are more apt to be installed on bigger boats with larger outboard engines having alternators with higher charging outputs makes it extremely likely that the alternator on your boat will be big enough to charge your trolling motor batteries. And, the chargers automatically compensate during those peak load times when less surplus power is available to scale down the amount of power going to the trolling motor batteries. They also automatically reduce their output if the trolling motor batteries don’t need to be charged. [links]
That being said, I often spend a week or more at a time in Canada with no power source. I have a switch where I can control where the charge goes to. I have the option of selecting both the starting battery and both trolling motor batteries, or isolating the charge to one or the other. This will get me through the week but I try and conserve when possible. This works for me because I'm often making longer runs of 5 - 15 miles at high rpm which allows some charging to occur.
You have to be careful if you do this. You do not want to leave the switch turned to all when the motor is not running as all the batteries will try and equalize themselves. Also depending on what you have for wiring you only want to start the motor off the starting battery, otherwise you could risk damage or worse if you don't have heavy enough gage wiring. more