BeeCee1
17.06.2021 12:41:11
Re: Starter stuck in flywheel??
See full version: Starter stuck in flywheel
Re: Starter stuck in flywheel??
UPDATE: Problem happened again. After a little bit trying to start it the starter stayed up in the flywheel.
Re: Starter stuck in flywheel?? [links]
On my 70' 115 I replaced the starter. I suppose I could of had it rebuilt but I found a good deal on a replacement on Ebay and my personal preference is to go new on that old of an OEM starter. [links]
Its been said and I'll say it again check ALL your connections and battery charge condition. Lube the starter shaft w/ some light weight machine oil. The absolute last thing in the line (for me anyway) is starter replacement/rebuilding. [links]
Re: Starter stuck in flywheel??
Undo the nut/ bolt on the flywheel and pull it off
If it was not the flywheel remove the 4 bolts that hold on the rocker cover which is at the front and has OHV pressed or cast into it.
When it comes off ( might be glued on with silastic as well ) you should see two rods coming up out of the engine ( pushrods ) and they push agains a small lever ( rocker arm ) that pushes down onto a valve.
When not being pushed up by the cam they should be a loose rattly fit, that you can not pull off.
If you can the pushrod has jumped off the followers on the cam shaft and you might be looking at a complete dissasembly of the engine.
So get this bit done and let us know exactly what you see and smell.
Next remove the carburettor and check that the two butterflys ( round brass discs ) are both there and the tiny bolts that hold them to the shaft.
The throttle one ( nearest the engine ) can come loose and enter the engine and jamb the valve, howevet this generally stops the engine at a specifie spot so it will turn backwards & forewards till the stuck valve stops the engine turning which is not what you are describing.
If it just feels like the piston is stuck so you are just taking up the slack when you try & turn it back & forth then piston seized is No 1 in the suspect list.
If you can turn it a little in each direction and it makes a hard klunk sound then a loose magnet is the No 1 suspect
If it turns about 2/3 a revolution and stops with a squeeky sound then stuck valve is No 1 suspect.
Start here because this is the least amount of dissasembly required to check off a potential cause and if it is not the problem it will need to come off in any case.
Start with the easy things first.
Take the engine cover off it is held on by 4 bolts.
You may also need to remove the fuel pump which is held on by 2 bolts, just undo it and push it aside.
The flywheel is held on by a big nut or bolt .
If you have a rattle gun and a big puller then use that if not undo the nut/bot two turns put a pry bar under the flywheel and put a lot of weight on the bar then hit the end of the nut/bolt hard with the biggest hammer you can lay your hands on.
The shock will pop the flywheel off the tapper you then undo the nut/bolt and the flywheel will lever off.
Several of you have tried to help me with what I thought was a starter problem. I have removed the starter and now discover that the flywheel itself seems to be stuck. This is a Toro Z5000 Kohler engine.
I am attaching a picture of the flywheel. The mower has been working great up until last week when all this happened. It seems that I am an idiot. I have washed my entire mower over the past couple of years and it appears to have rusted the flywheel some, but I don't think that is the issue. It is just surface rust.
My previous thread, Starter Just Clicks, has gotten me to this point. I have removed the plastic blade cover and the flywheel will not budge.
I would like to investigate further but afraid to. I can't see why the wheel will not move. Is it bolted down? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Chain saws contain a chain brake, a built-in safety feature that can manually or automatically lock the chain in place. It may appear as though the chain or flywheel is stuck when in fact the brake is locked. Thus, before taking apart your chain saw, first check the chain brake to ensure it is fully disengaged. To release the chain brake, pull the hand guard all the way back toward the handle until you hear a clicking noise. The click indicates the brake was successfully disengaged.
Thoroughly examine the flywheel for any potential damage, such as bent or chipped fins. Also examine the flywheel key as a bent key will prevent the flywheel from spinning. If either the flywheel or the key are damaged, the parts will need to be replaced. Now you will need to reassemble the chain saw, using the new or previously undamaged parts. If after the flywheel has been removed and replaced with a new flywheel, the chain saw still fails to operate, then the problem is with another part of the chain saw and the chain saw may need to be replaced.
To remove the flywheel, you will need a hammer, an impact driver, and an appropriately sized socket bit. The needed socket size will vary by saw but is typically between 13 millimeters and 16 millimeters. Attach the socket to the impact driver and use the socket to remove the flywheel nut by turning the impact driver counterclockwise. Then, using your hammer, hit the crankshaft with hard, quick blows until the flywheel pops off. To lessen the risk of damaging the flywheel, it is recommended to use a metal bar as a barrier between the hammer and the crankshaft. Find a metal bar, roughly 1 cm or 1/2 inch thick, and hold it firmly against the crankshaft. Then hit the end of the bar with the hammer until the flywheel releases.
The flywheel is a central aspect to a properly functioning motor. A chain saw flywheel provides the needed momentum to power the chain. There are many things that can inhibit the functioning of the flywheel. If the flywheel is damaged in any way, if the flywheel becomes jammed, or if the flywheel key is bent or broken, then the flywheel will cease to move.