See full version: Portable Power Station (Bluetti) Trolling Motor
I did get those $16 cables. Maybe I should just wait to see exactly what they are and go from there. That's a good question about the AC50S amps though. The specs say:
Outputs: 2*AC110V,(300W Continuous, 450W Surge Max)
1*PD USB-C Port (Max.45w).
4*5V3A(Max) USB-A Ports.
2*12V/3A DC-Ports .
1*12V/10A(Max) Car Port more
And the trolling motor is, according to a forum:
SpeedLevel Amps LbsThrust
AC200 has a 25A output plug that you have to buy a special cable to use. It comes with a separate Anderson adapter cable.
Did you buy an AC200?
Look at the Indiegogo campaign page to see the cables that were only $16.
I doubt if an AC50 can run a trolling motors amps.
Lighter plugs are only 10A rated. more
The Bluetti EB240, for example, has a 12V DC power socket that can only deliver 9 Amps, continuously, so you would only be able to operate the trolling motor at the lowest speed setting (8 Amps). Even then, when the motor first starts, it might attempt to pull more than 9A, momentarily, which could cause an error condition on the EB240, requiring a reset.
I mounted the aluminum tube with the two electric motors to a 3/8" x 24" long aluminum plate that is bolted to my keel on the hull. I used the 50" tubes to bring the wiring above the waterline, and enter the hull through some liquid-tight electrical fittings.
The shaft is fed through the hole by removing it from the control head at the top of the shaft (easy). The latch collar I loosened, then slid it up the shaft, so the motor latches just under the deck when stowed. I only lower it into the water when entering or leaving a marina. more
The video is self explanatory as without the electric trolling motor I can't even try to get the houseboat down the channel without hitting someone, my house is at the end AFTER THE BEND. more
At the recent Seattle Boat Show, there was a new product being displayed which is called "Yacht Thruster". It is an external unit which can be mounted further forward to give more leverage. At first glance, it looks like a real target for being pulled off the hull, but having picked one up at the display, I can assure it is solid as a rock. Best feature is you don't need a tunnel in the hull, nor taking up space in forepeak. It is in the water stream at the bow but is claimed to reduce speed by .1 knot or less, in other words, you'll not notice any difference. It can also be installed as a stern thruster. This looks like a real great solution for our boats with little structural hacking. Can't say the price is any lower, but the installation cost is reduced significantly. I came close to buying one but decided I can deal with most situations with my stern thruster installed by the previous owner. It is a hydralic motor installed on the transom without a tunnel, only hoses through fittings.
If you were only as good as these guys, you wouldn't need no stinkin' bow thruster. more
Robert, I thought your idea of using a trolling motor was so good I've been looking for a used one for some time so I could install one. I finally decided the best one for me, since it seemed to be easy to adapt to the stern, is a Minn Kota engine mount. It has its own variable remote switch and should therefore be easy to install on the stern to the swim platform needing no through hulls. After looking at advertisements for thrusters, those that advertised power in pounds of thrust, it seemed most felt a 80 lb thrust would be good for a 30' boat. Minn Kota makes an 80 lb thrust trolling motor called an RT80EM which is for salt water. Even if I never go in salt water I figure its better to be safe. The negative to this size of thruster by them is it requires 24volts. This means I need a separate battery setup for it. I settled on two 12v batteries about the size used for a lawn tractor. I also found an automatic charger that charges 24 volts from 120v. Since it won't be used for long or often these batteries, I think, will handle this motor. I was able to get a good not great price on a used one that I will install next summer. I think I'll take off the mounting setup it has on it and put a ss t bar strapped to it for mounting. I may even allow it to be turned forwards so it could move the boat in a pinch. Although this is certainly not as sweet a deal as the one Lonnie saw at the boat show it will cost me in materials about 1/4 of that model. I am also trying to come up with an easy way to do the same thing for a bow thruster that I could move into position just before docking in case I needed or wanted it. By the way my boat walks big time to starboard so much so that she will only back to starboard or just straight. No turns to port for this boat in reverse unless a thruster is added. If anyone has some further ideas I am open to them. I always said my best ideas come from someone else. more
round up the dock ducks and tie them to a line that's attached to your bow. Then throw bread in the direction you want the bow to turn Just kidding. I single handle a 37' in a 38' slip. Both the fareway and slip are tight but with practice, patience, it's become easy to handle it by myself. If your boat is a fin keel boat, there is an easy way to insure a safe docking. Just back into the slip slowly and when the stern just passes the finger, hop off the boat while in reverse with a spring line in hand. Loop that spring line around the finger cleat and the boat will come to a stop and pull up to the finger. Let the line out until the boat is in the right place and then tie her off. After you do that a few times you will start to get the hang of it and soon you will have the docking down so well that you don't even need to top hop off the boat until your there. For leaving docks. learn how to use a kicker line. A line that you can attach to the dock and the boat that will spin the boat once out of the slip. This line is also retrievable from inside the cockpit. If you need more more detail on any of this including the ducks just ask and I will provide.
If a thruster is what you want. [links]
On those days when the wind is dead wrong for backing out my Catalina 30 I have built a simple wooden frame that I can hang over the stern rail. On this I have mounted a 35lbs thrust trolling motor, this set to drive the stern to port. With the boats natural prop wash driving the stern to starboard and an east wind making matters worse by driving the bow to port I can still back out nicely with the little motor, this pulling the stern to port and allowing a normal exit from the marina, ie, bow first. Luckily the motor only cost me, used, $100, plus I had an old battery off my broken down old ride-on mower,so the thing cost me next to nothing. Don't need it often, but on those days I need it, I really need it. It can easily be stored in a lockwer when not in use.
vs a trolling motor for cuddling? Naw! I'll take the live deckhand everytime, she is sweet. more
watching the fishermen! Some of those bow thur- uh trolling motors have remote controls for steering and forward and reverse. Personally I preferr a live deck hand at the bow. She is ssooo much nicer to cuddle than a weedy trolling motor.
You are kidding, right?